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Monday, February 4, 2008

Restore Task Manager, Regedit and Folder Options

Restore Task Manager, Regedit and Folder Options Disabled by Virus


Let’s face it. All of us have been infected by virus before. Even if you have anti-virus installed, you can still be infected by a new or custom virus that is not recognized by your anti-virus. Sometimes after removing the virus completely from our system, you’ll face new problems such as you can no longer bring up Windows Task Manager from CTRL+ALT+DEL. You get the error message saying “Task Manager has been disabled by your administrator”.
Task Manager has been disabled by your administrator

You think that it’s easy to fix this problem by going to Registry Editor but you can’t! You get the error message “Registry editing has been disabled by your administrator“.
Registry editing has been disabled by your administrator

Folder Options and even Show Hidden Files & Folder is disabled! How frustrating! Don’t worry, here’s how to restore your Windows Task Manager, Registry Editor, Folder Options and Show hidden files & folders.

This problem is most commonly caused by a virus called “Brontok“. Brontok virus will make some changes to the system restrictions in order to hide itself from easy detection and also from easy cleaning.

Here’s a free tool called Remove Restrictions Tool (RRT) which is able to re-enables all what the virus had previously disabled, and gives you back the control over your own computer.
Restore windows restrictions

Remove Restrictions Tool is able to re-enable:
- Registry Tools (regedit)
- Ctrl+Alt+Del
- Folder Options
- Show Hidden Files

Small and easy to use. Make sure you boot in to Safe Mode to use Remove Restrictions Tool (RRT). Just click on the buttons and it’ll do it’s job.

[ Download Remove Restrictions Tool (RRT) ]

How to Build a Computer

How to Build a Computer

Branded computers can offer both value and performance, the parts used can be powerful and cheap, and you can switch on and start work. Yet parts are often short-spec in one place or another. Sadly you'll often get a performance "bottleneck" such as a slow graphics card, only a basic amount of memory, or a slimline motherboard with too few upgrade slots. Luckily, computers are surprisingly easy to build. If you can afford the time to plan and build your own machine, you can design a system more targeted toward your own use.

Steps

  1. Outline the benefits you're seeking from building your own computer. Different configurations suit different purposes:

    • Basic System. Nothing special, just some good parts from solid brands.
    • Home System. More RAM and a slightly better CPU for that added boost.
    • A Gamer's Rig. You'll need a killer graphics card, and a lot of RAM.
    • Music Producer. Specialist sound cards offer lots of features and multi-channels.
    • Video Editing Suite. Your processor, hard drive, and memory (some situations graphics card too) are used extensively.
    • Server System. You need a really powerful rig that can shift large amounts of data 24/7.
  2. Choose your setup. The cost implications of choosing between these uses are huge. A cheap work computer might cost only two or three hundred. A server can reach tens of thousands. Take the advice of experienced users in your field. Spend no more than is required for your usage. Ignore salesmen or others who implore you to waste money on unneeded upgrades. Refer to the table below for guidelines.
  3. Select your hardware. Review the Things You'll Need section below to determine what to obtain for your computer. Consult the many forums on the Web for people who enjoy building their own computer systems. Post what you are planning on building, and ask for suggestions. Many people on forums are more than willing to make sure that you have chosen parts that are good, and that the overall computer will work.
  4. Make sure the parts you have selected will work together. Almost all good computer parts websites have detailed lists of specifications to view and check what type of connection the specific part uses. Usually this entails:
    • CPU socket-Motherboard socket (ex. 775, AM2)
    • Graphics card slot-Motherboard slot (ex. PCI-E, AGP)
    • Hard drive type-Motherboard connections (ex. SATA, PATA, RAID 0)
    • Case type-Motherboard type (ex. ATX, Micro-ATX)
    • PSU type-Case type (ex. ATX, Micro-ATX)
    • RAM type-Motherboard RAM supported (ex. DDR-400, PC-3200)
    • Monitor-Graphics card connection (ex. VGA, DVI)
    • Sound Card slot-Motherboard slot (ex. PCI)
  5. Know where each part will go and how they will connect and disconnect from the socket/slot. This is crucial as incorrect placement can ruin computer components.
  6. Connect your hardware according to the instructions that come with the motherboard. Don't leave the hardware on your floor for days while you figure out what you should do, as this may lead to electrostatic discharge which can damage or ruin computer components. When not attached to the motherboard and case, all components should be left in their anti-static bags. Generally, this entails:
    • Attach the PSU (power supply unit) to the inside of the case, following the instructions included with the case (some cases might have this step completed).
    • Place the motherboard on top of its antistatic bag.
    • Insert the processor into the motherboard. This is done by opening the ZIF [zero insertion force] socket, and carefully inserting the processor (NO force needed, if it doesn't slip right in, or it feels like you have to push, something is probably not right). Then close the ZIF socket arm (little force needed).
    • Apply good thermal paste to the CPU. Use a very small pea sized amount and spread it in a thin layer over the entire processor surface (or if this is an older Athlon series without the protective cover, only apply to the chip in the center of the processor board). Adding too much thermal paste will decrease the life of the processor.
    • Attach the heat sink. This varies from heat sink to heat sink, so read the instructions.
    • Insert the RAM in the proper slots by opening the slots and pushing the RAM in until the little handles can lock it into position.
    • Screw the standoff screws (usually gold hexagonal screws) into the case at the proper points where the motherboard will be screwed in.
    • If your motherboard came with an IO backplate, pop out the one that came with your case and snap in the new one. This sometimes takes a bit of force. If your motherboard has standard IO connectors, your case will already have an appropriate backplate. Just snap out the metal covers (by bending from side to side) for each IO port that your motherboard has.
    • Insert the motherboard into the case (it helps to hold on to the heatsink), and secure it (fasten screws into the holes, which will go into the standoffs).
    • Attach the video card (if you have one ) and any other PCI cards into the motherboard. Be sure to secure them into place via the proper screws.
    • Insert the floppy drive, CD-ROM drives, and the hard drives. Connect them with the appropriate cables, either IDE or SATA.
    • Attach the power supply cables to the appropriate connectors in the computer (motherboard, floppy drive, hard drive, fans, CD-ROM drive). Each cable will only fit in the correct orientation, but pressure will still be needed to push the cables in. Be sure to read the directions that came with each component.
    • Use zip ties to carefully bundle all of the cables, and route them to prevent them from blocking the airflow.
    • Connect front panel connectors to the motherboard (the layout is in the motherboard and/or case manuals).
  7. Plug in your computer. Turn on the computer and immediately open the CD drive. Put the CD for your operating system in the drive and close it. Restart your computer by pressing the power button until it shuts off and then push the power button again to turn the computer back on. Don't forget to turn your monitor on.
  8. Check your motherboard manual for keys to use to start the "boot sequence" or "CMOS settings", or sometimes "BIOS settings". Click this button when the motherboard splash screen appears. Set your computer's CD/DVD drive as the first boot option. You may have to reboot your computer for these settings to take affect.
  9. Follow the instructions to install your operating system. With most operating systems, this will include: Formatting the hard drive, configuring the boot loader, configuring the operating system, and finally installing the operating system. Once the operating system is installed, you're ready to go!


Tips

  • The more preparation, research and careful selection of parts you do (and making it), the less proportion of your life you will spend making the darn thing work.
  • If you feel overwhelmed, it's better to ask nicely and get an experienced technician to source the parts and build the machine. Individual hardware can have niggling incompatibilities that can ruin your user experience. Insist on years of experience. You'll be glad you did.
  • This is a basic outline to build computers, but you still need an operating system (Windows, Mac, Linux).
    • Most people have Windows and know it well, but the legal Windows version for a custom machine may be more expensive than the pre-installed OS you get in the computer from the shop.
    • Linux is great and free but may need more attention to install and configure. However building machine from pieces gives you great opportunity to check the list of supported hardware and be sure that your devices (especially video cards) will work.
  • Choose the right amount of memory. The correct amount and type of memory is crucial for system function and stability.
  • Don't go cheap on the power supply. A low-grade power supply can fail and destroy your motherboard. When this happens, you will replace the power supply, motherboard, CPU and RAM as your old CPU and RAM won't work in the new motherboard. Spend the extra $50 and make sure your system lasts for several years.
  • If you put the computer system together and it does not work, take out everything except the power supply and motherboard (and video card if not using an on-board video card). Ensure that works by viewing your BIOS start up screen. Turn it off, then plug in your hard drives and verify that works. Turn it off, then plug in your CD-ROM and ensure that works. Turn it off, and continue to plug in each additional peripheral until everything is plugged in and working. The idea here is to put in the minimum components to get it to power up, then add one at a time so you know what component is causing the problem.
  • Read online or magazine reviews on each component before purchasing it.
  • It may be very helpful to request the assistance of a friend who is familiar with building computers. At the very least, ask for their opinions on the parts you plan to use.
  • Be mindful of the price. It may be cheaper to buy a brand name computer.


Warnings

  • The quality and price of a component are often linked when comparing one brand's component to another brand's component of the same specs. Make a judgment call based upon the brand's reputation, the quality of their support (ie: RMA process), and online reviews. Do not settle for a component of sub-par reliability just to save a few dollars. The biggest differences in price come from each component's level of technology (ie: Core 2 Duo verses Core 2 Quad).
  • Do not use force to insert any component into any slot or socket. The tolerances of newer hardware components may be narrow, but everything should still fit without the need to apply too much force. Memory modules are among the few types of components that may require a bit of pressure to install. Before installing your memory modules, make sure they match the memory slots by comparing the notches.
  • Do not force cable connections. Fortunately, cables at the back of a computer will only fit onto their intended connector. All cables, except for coaxial and some laptop power connections, will only connect when they are in the same orientation as their connector. For example, DVI and VGA video cables have a trapezoidal connector, not a rectangular one.
  • If you are unsure about any aspect of the construction of your computer, DO NOT try "winging" it, either ask for someone who knows what their doing to "spot" you while you build or hire a professional to do it for you.
  • Avoid electrostatic discharge when installing components. Wear a static wristband or regularly ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case before handling components. Read the Related wikiHow on How to Avoid Destroying a Computer With Electrostatic Discharge for additional information.
  • Double-check all connections before switching on the computer for the first time.
  • Do not spill any liquids on electronic components, especially when they are powered on.
  • When plugging in CPUs and PATA (IDE) devices, be gentle. If you bend a pin, use tweezers or a narrow needle-nose pliers to straighten it. If you break a pin, on a CPU or CPU socket, your hardware will no longer function correctly. If you break a pin on an IDE connector, you have a 7 in 40 chance that you've broken a ground pin, which may not be critical to a device's functionality. Reference this chart to verify.
  • Don't skimp on purchasing quality components. This is especially important of computer's power supply. Acquire a power supply made by a well-known and respected manufacturer. A low-quality or inadequate power supply may damage other system components if it fails.


Things You'll Need

  • Motherboard - The motherboard is basically the computer. Without it nothing happens. Everything connects into the motherboard, which makes it really important. Modern boards contain PCI-Express (PCI-E) slots that are much faster than the old PCI. Motherboard makers list compatible CPU and memory products online. Read them before making your CPU and memory selections. You might want to look at the processor an the motherboard at the same time. Make sure your motherboard has enough USB slots for all your peripherals. Although the performance chart states MicroATX as the lowest performance motherboard, that is not always true. Though the MicroATX form factor has fewer expansion slots, it is often similar in performance to its larger cousins. It is indeed possible to create a MicroATX system that has high performance and reliability.
  • Processor (CPU) - This is the thing that makes the computer run, it does everything from running a game to adding 2+2. There is not a lot to think about in a CPU but there is one major decision. Intel or AMD. Up until recently, AMD showed better results in gaming and desktop computing, and Intel had better straightline speeds for data-crunching. Since the release of Intel's Core 2 Duo Processor line, however, this has changed. In the sweet spot for gaming performance, AMD could be competitive by significantly lowering prices for the Athlon 64 X2 or Athlon 64 FX-62. However, either a Core 2 Duo or an Athlon will fill your needs, as long as you purchase a processor from either line that is powerful enough for your needs.
  • Power Supply - Focal to the computer is the power supply itself, which provides power to the components. Power supplies are mainly rated by their power output in watts. Watts, however, aren't everything. A good quality 400 watt power supply from a reputable manufacturer will generally be a much better choice than a generic '550 watt' unit. If you get a case with the power supply included, then there's nothing you need to worry about. Antec generally makes high quality cases and power supplies. If you are looking to make a gaming rig then you must also look at how much power your video card will draw, both amps and watts. Many of today's power supplies have 2 or more 12-Volt rails, which is where a video card draws its power. This divides the total available amps and watts evenly between these. Certain high end Video cards will need to draw more amps or watts then a single one of these rails can provide so it may be important to get a single 12Volt rail power supply. Be certain to check that the power supply you want also has the proper connectors for the newer video cards.
  • Hard Drive - The hard drive stores everything you'll need: the operating system and all other data that you put on your computer. The only criteria for your hard drive is capacity and type. SATA, the current interface, offers RAID support and faster transfer speeds. All new motherboards are compatible with SATA hard drives. A 7200 RPM drive is crucial (anything less will bottleneck your entire system). Perpendicular Recording Technology is recommended for high capacity. Use RAID (Redundant Array of Independent Disks) is you require rapid reading and writing of large quantities of data or if you need to duplicate your data among different drives to ensure reliable storage; otherwise, don't bother. People have different opinions about which are the best hard drives, but Seagate drives have been shown to be very reliable. Check the reviews. As always, avoid no-name components.
  • RAM/Memory - Since the hard drive is slow to give information, a lot of information has to be stored in a place where it can be accessed fast. This is where the RAM comes in. However, it is not a replacement to a hard drive because it is not a permanent memory. Sometimes more is better than faster, depending on what applications you want to use. RAM choice is dependent on the motherboard. Go with a stick of 512 MB DDR or DDR2 (depending on the motherboard) RAM as the bare minimum, but for anything other than office applications, you'll want at least 1GB. Install 1 GB per processor core, and stick with Crucial, Corsair and Kingston.
  • Additional Drives - In addition to the hard drive, you will also want to purchase a CD/DVD Drive. The CD/DVD drive (optical drive) is an important removable media drive for CD's or DVD's. They are cheap and easy to install. All you have to consider is whether it burns CD's or not and whether it reads/writes DVD's. The most "able-bodied" CD/DVD drive is a combo drive.
  • Graphics Card (GPU) - The graphics card is the gateway between your computer and your monitor. It determines how you will see your desktop and everything else you do on your computer. This means how fast you see it and the quality of what you're seeing. For most purposes, fast integrated video like Intel GMA 3000 or nVIDIA 6150 will suffice (even for Vista's Aero Glass), but if you are going to be gaming or editing video a lot, get a standalone video adapter. Your graphics card fits into either a PCI-E slot (the current graphics standard), or an AGP slot. If you are upgrading an older or low-end PC, there may be neither of these slots, in which case you will have to use an empty PCI slot to accommodate a PCI video card. These boards almost always have integrated video. In addition, you have to check the memory of the graphics card. The memory in the graphics card determines what you can do it with the card. Some programs need more memory to run. 256 MB is recommended but 512 MB is better for gamers.
  • Case - The case is the enclosure that holds your computer together. It protects your computer from dust and other things that may harm your computer. A mid-size, mini, or micro cube is fine for most users, but a full tower may be needed for servers or users who want a lot of space. The main thing you want to consider in your case is the fans that are in it. The more fans the cooler your computer will be. However, the more fans the more noisier your computer is. In addition, some cases have a Power Supply which will determine if you need to buy a separate one later. Also, make sure the tiny box you'd like has enough space for hard drives, DVD recorders, and that optional card reader. Running out of space is a pain. Antec is usually best.
  • Monitor - The monitor is the display on which you will see your desktop and everything you do on your computer. The only thing you have to worry about is whether there are ports that will connect your computer's your monitor. For instance, most graphics cards have DVI ports instead of VGA ports while some only have VGA ports and not DVI ports. The description of the graphics card will tell you if it has a DVI port or not. You may want to get special features with your monitor, but that is completely up to you. CRTs, the large, boxy monitors, are still preferred by graphic artists for their reliability and color accuracy. However, LCDs are much sharper and will leave your desk less crowded. They also consume less power. It's mainly a money and personal preference decision.
  • Keyboard & Mouse - There are expensive gaming and work sets available, for first-person-shooter (FPS) games or designing 3D. Just get a cheap set (wireless is good, less congested) for basic computing. A docking rechargeable mouse is great (no more battery changing!). If you love FPS games, then you should go with a laser mouse (not to be confused with an optical mouse!) that has a nice feel and weight to it. If you have a tendency to develop carpal tunnel syndrome then a trackball mouse might be best. They are slightly more expensive, but you don't have to move your wrist at all and you can place them anywhere (leg, table, arm of chair, anything).
  • Sound card/headphones - Your sound card or headphones is the device that lets you hear the sounds of your computer. A surround sound card lets you have surround sound with a lot of speakers. There are also headphones that have a microphone built in (headset). You can have either. But remember, if you get a sound card you also have to get speakers. Remember also that many motherboards have excellent integrated high definition audio, so you may not need one for all your sound horsepower.
  • Operating system - Keep in mind what Operating System you will be using. Windows Vista will require better performing hardware than Windows XP, MacOS X, or Linux. The operating system you select should fit your needs, your comfort level, and your peripherals. For example, Windows XP and Ubuntu are excellent choices for hardware compatibility and ease of use, but may not always include the latest features of Windows Vista, MacOS X, or other Linux distributions. There are a multitude of Linux distributions such as Fedora, openSUSE, Mandriva, PCLinuxOS, Knoppix, Kubuntu, Debian, Freespire, Slackware, Gentoo, etc. Avoid distributions such as Slackware that require intimate knowledge of Linux command line shells unless you're comfortable with Linux. Avoid distributions such as Gentoo that require every file to be compiled during install unless you're willing to spend multiple days on an install for a disputable increase in performance.


Recommendations

The following table is a general suggestion table for choosing parts, regardless of a computer's intended use. Value categories are suggestions to save money (ie: build a PC for less than $500 US), performance categories are mainstream or for gamers, and the enthusiast categories are for those who enjoy building high-end systems. These categories are highly subjective, may not be up-to-date beyond its initial writing, and only exist to serve as an example.


Value Performance Enthusiast
Case Any, typically mini or mid-towers Mid-tower with room for intake and exhaust fans (example: Antec, Thermaltake, Coolermaster) Full-tower or mod case with extensive cooling capabilities (ie: room for water cooling system), or built-in passive cooling (example: Lia-li, Coolermaster, Zalman, etc.)
Motherboard Socket 4xx/9xx, AGP graphics Socket 775/AM2+, PCI-E graphics Socket 775/AM2/F, multiple PCI-E slots, Crossfire or SLI support
CPU AMD X2 or Intel Core 2 E4xxx AMD Phenom or Intel Core 2 Duo E6xxx/Quad Q6xxx AMD Opteron (typically in dual-CPU configuration) or Intel Core 2 Extreme (Extreme series CPUs are quad core)
RAM 1GB of DDR/DDR2, any latency 2GB of DDR2, moderately low latency 2GB+ of ultra low latency DDR2/DDR3 (typically 4GB+)
Power Supply 400W+ value PSU (20+ amps of 12V) 500W+ quality PSU or 650W+ value PSU (35+ amps of 12V) 750W+ quality PSU (60+ amps of 12V)
Video built-in video chip on motherboard, NVIDIA x300/x400/7500, or ATI Radeon x3xx card. NVIDIA 7600/7800/8500/8600/8800GT or ATI 2600/2900 card NVIDIA 79x0/8800GTX/8800 Ultra or ATI Radeon HD 38xx card(s)
Audio built-in sound chip on motherboard, Creative Labs Live, Audigy, or any C-Media based sound card. Creative Labs X-Fi, Auzentech X-Meridian, or HT Omega (cards with EAX 2.0 or higher) ASUS Xondar, Auzentech X-Fi Prelude (cards with EAX 5.0), or audiophile cards by E-MU or M-Audio
Hard Drive(s) Any 7200rpm SATA drive (any capacity) 10k rpm SATA (Raptor) or Ultra320 SCSI drives(s) in standalone or RAID 0/1 configuration (250GB or higher total capacity to store media such as movies and music) Ultra320 SCSI drives in RAID arrays on RAID controllers with on-board memory (any capacity, but typically 1TB and higher)
Optical Drive(s) Any DVD reader or burner DVD lightscribe burner (example: Lite-on brand) DVD burner w/ Bluray/HD-DVD support or multiple drives (example: Plextor brand)

How to Set up a Private Network

How to Set up a Private Network

A private network is one which either does not connect to the internet, or is connected indirectly using NAT (Network Address Translation) so its addresses do not appear on the public network. However, a private network allows you to connect to other computers that are on the same physical network. This is desirable when you wish to communicate with a group of other computers or share data and internet connectivity is not necessary.

Steps

  1. Plan your network. This is probably the hardest part of setting up a network.

    Draw any routers you may be using to separate major portions of your network first. Smaller private networks do not require routers, but may still use them for administrative reasons. Routers are only required if a.)Dividing your network into multiple smaller networks, b.) Allowing indirect internet access using NAT. Next, add any switches and hubs. For small networks, only one switch or hub may be necessary.
    Draw boxes to represent the computers and lines connecting the devices together. This drawing will serve as your network diagram.

    Although diagrams intended only for your own use may use any symbols you desire, use of industry standard symbols make this task simpler and eliminates confusion for others. Typical industry standard symbols are:

    • Routers: Circle with four arrows arranged in a cross. Or just a cross if drawing a quick draft.
    • Switches: Square or rectangle, with four staggered arrows, two in each direction. Represents the concept of signals being "switched" - relayed only out the port which leads to the intended user based on address.
    • Hubs: Same as switch, with a single double-headed arrow. Represents the concept of all signals being blindly repeated out all ports without concern for which port leads to the intended recipient.
    • Lines and squares can be used to represent connections leading to computers.
  2. Create an address plan

    • IPv4 (IP ver. 4) addresses are written like this: xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx (four numbers separated by three dots), in all RFC-1166 compliant countries. Each number ranges from 0 to 255. This is known as "Dotted Decimal Notation" or "Dot Notation" for short. The address is divided into two portions: the network portion and the host portion.

      For "Classful" networks, the network and host portions are as follows:
      ("n" represents the network portion, "x" represents the host portion)

      When the first number is 0 to 127 - nnn.xxx.xxx.xxx (ex. 10.xxx.xxx.xxx)
      These are known as "Class A" networks.

      When the first number is 128 to 191 - nnn.nnn.xxx.xxx (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx)
      These are known as "Class B" networks.

      When the first number is 192 to 223 - nnn.nnn.nnn.xxx (ex. 192.168.1.xxx)
      These are known as "Class C" networks.

      When the first number is 224 to 239 - The address is used for multi-casting.

      When the first number is 240 to 255 - The address is "experimental".

      Multicast & Experimental addresses are beyond the scope of this article. However, do note that because IPv4 does not treat them the same way as other addresses they should not be used.
      For simplicity "non-classful networks", sub-netting, and CIDR will not be discussed in this article.

      The network portion specifies a network; the host portion specifies an individual device on a network.

      For any given network:

      • The range of all possible host portion numbers gives the Address Range.
        (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the range is 172.16.0.0 to 172.16.255.255)
      • The lowest possible address is the Network Address.
        (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the network address is 172.16.0.0)
        This address is used by devices to specify the network itself, and cannot be assigned to any device.
      • The highest possible address is the Broadcast Address.
        (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the broadcast address is 172.16.255.255)
        This address is used when a packet is meant for all devices on a specific network, and cannot be assigned to any device.
      • The remaining numbers in the range are the Host Range.
        (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the host range is 172.16.0.1 to 172.16.255.254)
        These are the numbers you can assign to computers, printers, and other devices.
        Host Addresses are individual addresses within this range.
    • Assign network(s). A network, for this purpose, is any group of connections separated by a router.

      Your network may not have routers or, if accessing the Internet with NAT, have only one router between your private network and the public internet. If this is your only router, or if you have no routers, your entire private network is considered one network.

      Choose a network with a host range large enough to provide an address to each device. Class C networks (ex. 192.168.0.x) allow for 254 host addresses (192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.254), which is fine if you have no more than 254 devices. But if you have 255 or more devices, you will either need to use a Class B network (ex. 172.16.x.x) or divide your private network into smaller networks with routers.

      If additional routers are used, they become "internal routers", the private network becomes a "private intranet", and each group of connections is a separate network requiring its own network address and range. This includes connections between routers, and connections directly from a router to a single device.

      For simplicity, the remainder of these steps will assume you have only one network, of 254 or less devices, and uses 192.168.2.x as an example. We will also assume you are not using DHCP (Dynamic Host Control Protocol) to assign host addresses automatically.
  3. Write "192.168.2.x" in the corner somewhere. If you have more than one network it's best to write each address near the network it belongs to.
  4. Assign host addresses within the range of 1 to 254 to each computer. Write the host addresses next to the devices they belong to on the diagram. At first you may wish to write the entire address (ex. 192.168.2.5) next to each device. However, as you become more proficient simply writing the host portion (ex. .5) may help save time.

    Switches will not require addresses for the purpose discussed here. Routers will require addresses as described in the "Important Notes" section.
  5. Write down the subnet mask near the network address. For 192.168.2.x, which is a Class C, the mask is: 255.255.255.0 The computer needs it to tell which part of the IP address is the network and which is the host.

    IPv4 originally used the first number (ex. 192) to determine this based on the address class, as described above. However, the advent of subnetting and nonclassful networking made it necessary to provide a mask because other ways of dividing the address into network and host portions are now possible. For Class A addresses the mask is 255.0.0.0, for Class B it's 255.255.0.0 (More information in the Important Notes section.)
  6. Connect your network. Gather all needed materials including cables, computers, ethernet switches, and (if used) routers. Locate the Ethernet ports on the computers and other devices. Look for the 8-pin modular connector. (RJ-45 style) It looks like a standard telephone jack except it's a bit larger because it has more conductors.

    Connect the cables between each device, just as in your map. If an unforeseen circumstance causes you to vary from the diagram, make notes to show any changes.
  7. Boot all the computers connected to the network. Power on all other connected devices. (Some devices have no "power switch" and will power up simply by plugging them in.)
  8. Configure the computers for networking. Go to internet options (this varies depending on the Operating System), and go to the dialog box that lets you change the TCP/IP protocol. Change the radio buttons from "Obtain from DHCP server automatically" to "Use the following IP address:". Type in your IP address for that computer, and the appropriate subnet mask (255.255.255.0).

    If you have no routers, leave the "Default Gateway" and "DNS server" fields blank.

    If connecting to the internet using NAT, use the Host Address assigned to the router between your private network and the internet as both the DNS server and the Default Gateway. Do not use the Network Address (192.168.2.0)

    If using more than one router see the Important Notes section.

    If configuring a home network with a relatively new router, This section can be ignored as long as the network is connected correctly, The router will assign network addresses to everything on the network going into your network, until it hits another router.
  9. Verify connectivity. The simplest way to do this is with Ping. Bring up MS-DOS or the equivalent on other OS's, (In Windows open the command prompt which is located in the Start Menu - Accessories - Command Prompt) and type in: ping 192.168.2.[insert host number here]. Do this on one host and ping to all other hosts. Remember, your router is considered a host. If you cannot reach one, read over the steps again or contact a professional.


Important Notes

  • Adding NAT (Network Address Translation) to the network described above. NAT allows private networks to connect to public networks, by converting IP addresses on the private network to ones allowed on the public network. All devices will appear from the Internet's perspective to be connected to one of its public networks according to the public addressing plan (as defined by IANA - Internet Assignment Numbering Authority). "Dynamic NAT" allows multiple private IPs to "take turns" using a public IP.

    A related technology, PNAT (Port Network Address Translation) - also known as PAT (Port Address Translation) or NAT "Overloading", allows multiple private IPs to "share" one public IP at the same time. It manipulates both OSI Layer 3 and OSI Layer 4 information so connections from multiple private IPs appear to come from one computer with one public IP.

    Many computer, electronics, and even department store sell small routers designed to allow multiple users to share a single internet connection. Almost all of these use PAT, to eliminate the need for more than one public IP (extra public IPs may be expensive, or not allowed, depending on your provider).

    If you use one, you will need to assign one of your private network's Host Addresses to the router.

    If using a more complex commercial router, you will need to assign a private Host Addresses to the interface connecting to your private network, your public IP to the interface connecting to the Internet, and configure NAT/PAT manually.

    If using only one router, the interface used to connect the router to your private network will become both the "DNS Server Interface" and the "Default Gateway". You will need to add its address to these fields when configuring your other devices.

  • If your network is divided using one or more internal routers, each router will require an address for each network connected to it. (IP Unnumbered is beyond the scope of this article) This address will need to be a host address (just like a computer's) from the host range of the network. Typically, the first available host address (that's the second address in the address range ex. 192.168.1.1) will be used; however any address in the host range is fine as long as you know what it is. Do not use the network address (ex. 192.168.1.0), or the broadcast address (ex 192.168.1.255).

    For networks containing one or more user devices (ex. printers, computers, storage devices) the address the router uses for that network will become "Default Gateway" for the other devices. The DNS server, if present, should remain the address used by the router between your networks and the internet. For networks interconnecting routers, no default gateway is needed. For networks containing both user devices and routers, any router on that network will do.

    A network is a network, no matter how big or small. When two routers are connected by one cable, even though a Class C (the smallest network) contains 256 addresses, all will belong to the cable. The network address will be .0, the broadcast will be .255, two of the hosts will be used (one for each interface the cable connects), and the other 252 will simply go to waste because they cannot be used anywhere else.

    Generally, the small home routers described above are not used for this purpose. When they are, understand the ethernet interfaces on the "private network" side usually belong to a "switch" which is built into the router. The router itself connects to this internally using only one interface. When this is the case, only one host IP will be used by all of them, and they will all be on the same network.

    When a router has multiple interfaces with multiple IP's, each interface and IP will create a different network.
  • The concept of a subnet mask. The general concept will help in understanding why this number matters.

    Dotted decimal notation is a human way of writing IP Addresses to make them easier to work with. What the computer "sees" is 32 ones and zeros in a row like this: 11000000101010000000001000000000. IPv4 originally broke this into 4 groups of 8, hence the "dots" - 11000000.10101000.00000010.00000000, each group is an "octet" of 8 bits. Dotted decimal writes the value of the octet in decimal to make it easier for people to read - 192.168.2.0

    A complex set of rules concerning the order of the ones and zeros in the first octet was used to create the "Classful Addressing Scheme"; however, no subnet mask was needed. For all Class A's the first octet was network, for Class B's the first and second were network, for Class C's the first three.

    In 1987, intra-nets started becoming larger and the Internet was on its way. Wasting whole Class C ranges of 254 host addresses on small networks became a problem. Class A and B networks often wasted addresses because physical limitations forced networks to be divided by routers before they could get large enough to use so many addresses. (Class B's host range (256 X 256) - 2 = 65534 addresses; Class A's (256^3) - 2 = 16777214.)

    Subnetting divides a large Classful network into many smaller "sub-nets" by increasing the number of ones and zeros used to address networks(leaving fewer for the hosts in each network). A small subnet can then be assigned to a small network without using a large number of extra addresses. To say which bits are the network address we use a 1. The "mask" (ex. 255.255.255.192) when converted to binary (ex. 11111111.11111111.11111111.11000000) defines exactly how many more bits are added to the network portion (ex. two host bit). In this example, one Class C with 254 hosts becomes four sub-nets with 62 hosts each. Of these sub-nets only two may be assigned to networks; the first and last cannot be used according to RFC-950.

    Further discussion of the rules of subnetting is beyond the scope of this article. What matters here is that even though we are using Classful addresses, Windows (and other software) doesn't know this. And hence, will still need a mask to tell it how many bits we want to use for the network portion. By saying 255.255.255.0, we're saying that 11111111.11111111.11111111.00000000 is the subnet. By that, we say that the first three octets are the network, and the last is the host - we want to make it a Class C.


Tips

  • Many devices can determine if you are using a crossover or strait through cable. If you are not so lucky to have auto-sensing on at least one of the devices connected by a cable, you must use the correct type between them. Computer/router-to-switch will require a strait through, computer/router-to-computer/router a crossover. (Note: The ports on the back of some home routers actually belong to a switch built into the router, and must be treated as a switch)

    Strait through is a CAT-5, CAT-5e, or CAT-6 Ethernet Cable with the wires connected as follows:

    On both ends: Orange Stripe; Orange; Green Stripe; Blue; Blue Stripe; Green; Brown Stripe; Brown

    Crossover is a CAT-5, CAT-5e, or CAT-6 Ethernet Cable with the wires connected:

    On one end: Orange Stripe; Orange; Green Stripe; Blue; Blue Stripe; Green; Brown Stripe; Brown
    On the other end: Green Stripe; Green; Orange Stripe; Blue; Blue Stripe; Orange; Brown Stripe; Brown

    The above conforms to TIA/EIA-568 standard, however, all that is important for a cross-over to work is for pins 1 & 2 (transmit) to switch places with pins 3 & 6 (receive) on the opposite end. For a strait through pins should be the same on both ends. Color sets (ex. Orange Strip & Orange) mark twisted pairs. Keeping pin sets on the same twisted pair (i.e. pins 1 & 2 on one color set, and pins 3 & 6 on another) allows best signal quality.

  • Hubs are cheaper when connecting only a few devices, but they don't know which interface leads where. They simply repeat everything out all ports, hope it gets to the right device, and let the receiver decide if it needs the information or not. This wastes allot of bandwidth, only allows one computer to talk at one time, and slow the network when more computers are connected.
  • Switches cost more, but are smarter. They use addresses to decide where to send data, allow more than one device to talk at once, and don't waste the bandwidth of the other devices' connections.

  • Never connect hubs in any way which forms loops or rings, it will cause packets to be repeated around the ring forever. Additional packets will be added, until the hub is saturated and cannot pass traffic.

    Best practice is not connect switches this way either. If connecting switches this way, ensure the switch supports "Spanning Tree Protocol" and that the feature is active. Otherwise the same thing will happen as with hubs.

Warnings

  • IANA (The Internet Assigned Numbers Authority) has reserved the following three blocks of the IP address space for private networks: 10.0.0.0 to 10.255.255.255, 172.16.0.0 to 172.31.255.255, and 192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255

    Although devices which do not affect public systems, "in theory", do not have to conform to this policy, in practice DNS service, and other software may become confused by use of addresses outside these ranges if not specially configured.

    Problems may also arise should a software, hardware, or human error issue cause private IP's outside this range to be used on the public internet. This could be caused by anything from failure of a router to initialize properly to accidentally connecting one of your devices directly to the internet at a later time.

    Networking experts never deviate from this policy if private IP data may affect devices outside their own networks, and rarely do so on isolated intra-nets without specific reason. Service providers have the responsibility to protect the Internet from IP conflicts by denying service, should a private IP address outside these ranges affect a public system.

    As a matter of security as well, do not deviate from the allotted private address ranges. The addition of Network Address Translation to a private network handing out private addresses is a low level method of security and has been referred to as a "Poor Man's Firewall."

How to Strip Coax Cable

How to Strip Coax Cable

Stripping coax (short for coaxial) cable is not very difficult, and can be mastered with a little practice. While tools designed specifically for this purpose are available for relatively little cost, this wiki will explain how to strip RG6 coax (a very popular cable and satellite TV cable) with a common razor knife and cutters to prepare for a typical "F" (cable or satellite TV) connector.
Coax stripper by AMP.
Coax stripper by AMP.

Steps

  1. Hold the cable in one hand (as if it were a stick to be whittled), with the end to be stripped pointed away from your body.
  2. Hold the razor knife in your dominant hand and extend the blade if not done so already.
  3. Firmly press the edge of the blade (not the point) into the cable at a right angle (perpendicular to the cable) about an inch from the end. The object of this cut is to cut through the outer jacket, layers of foil and / or braids and finally the dielectric foam (usually white in color) that surrounds the center conductor. There will be some opposition to the blade as it sinks deeper into the cable. When the blade approaches the half way point through the cable, ease up on the pressure of the blade. This will occur when the blade has reached the center conductor of the cable, which is at the half way point through the cable. It is very important to not damage this center conductor by nicking it with the blade.
  4. Run the blade half way around the cable by rotating the tool around the cable. Do not allow the blade to nick the center conductor as you continue to cut around the center conductor.
  5. Reposition the cable as needed in the other hand, so that the blade can easily continue to be rotated around the cable to continue the cut, while still being held in a comfortable position.
  6. Return the blade to the storage position in the tool and put the tool down. Grasp the the cable between the end and the fresh cut. Firmly pull the end off of the cable while twisting the end back and forth.
  7. Discard the cable end and pick up any stray wires from the braid.
  8. Cut off any braid wires that extend beyond the jacket so that they are flush with the jacket with the knife or wire cutters.
  9. Carefully inspect the center conductor for nicks. If it is nicked, it will be required to repeat the above steps until you are able to perform the steps without damaging the center conductor. It may take 6, 10 or more attempts before it can be done successfully if never attempted before.
  10. Remove any film or dielectric foam remaining from the length of the center conductor (if present) by gently scraping the center conductor with fingernail. Be sure the center conductor is clean all the way around over it's entire length.
  11. Hold the cable again as earlier to prepare for removal of the outer jacket. There are different types of "F" connectors and ways to attach them to the cable. Most common "F" connectors can be attached to cables prepared with the dimensions used here and should be used unless the connectors you are using specifies a different dimension.
  12. Hold the razor as before, aligning the the blade on the jacket about 5/16 inch back from the cut made in the previous step. The purpose of this cut is to penetrate the jacket only, and leave the braid intact. The cut will be perpendicular to the cable like the first cut. Many "F" connectors specify that the braid not be removed, while others prefer it removed. Plan to leave it in place for now, as it can be removed later, if needed. The braids are woven around the length of the dielectric foam, and lie just beneath the outer jacket. The individual wires that make up the braid are thinner than a hair, and are easily cut. Gently press the blade into the jacket and run it around the cable, in the same manner as was done in the first cut to the center conductor. Once the blade has cut around the circumference of the jacket, press the tip of the blade against the jacket at this cut and gently cut towards the end of the cable. Again, try not to cut the braid.
  13. Return the blade to the storage position in the tool and put the tool down. Peel the 5/16 inch jacket off of the cable, leaving only the braid covering the dielectric.
  14. Fold the braid back, over the outer jacket. This should expose the dielectric, which surrounds the center conductor. There is no concern if some of the braid wires were cut. Check the requirements (if any) of the "F" connector you will place on the end of the cable.
  15. Inspect the cable end. It is very important that there are no wires, filings or other conductive bits between the center conductor and the braid. The white dielectric should show anything that bridges these two parts easily. Remove anything found.
  16. Place the "F" connector on the end of the cable. Make one final inspection by looking into the connector. Make sure that no conductive debris is between the center conductor and the "F" connector before securing to the cable.
  17. The "F" connector is fully seated on the cable if the dielectric is flush with the "bottom" of the connector, when viewed from the end - looking in. It should not extend beyond or be recessed more than 1/16 inch from the bottom of the connector. Under no circumstances should the center conductor be in contact with the "F" connector.
  18. Secure the the "F" connector to the cable only with the tool designed for the connector.
    Compression type tool.
    Compression type tool.
    Crimping type tool.
    Crimping type tool.
Inexpensive crimping type tool.
Inexpensive crimping type tool.
  1. Cut the center conductor so that it extends beyond the "F" connector 3/16 to 1/4 inch.


Tips

  • Understand the parts of the cable. From the outside, working in to the center: the outer jacket (usually black or white), braid / foil or both (some have yet a second set of braid and foil, too), dielectric (usually white) and finally center conductor of copper or copper-clad steel. Some cables also have a "messenger wire" as well. This is usually a copper-clad steel solid wire that is attached continuously to the outer jacket. This messenger cable is used almost exclusively to support the cable between a pole and the point of attachment of the home. The messenger cable is connected to the ground block by many professional installers.
  • Cut enough off the end to be worked so that there are no kinks, bends, evidence of corrosion, etc in the cable. Work with straight, clean cable whenever possible.
  • Practice with scrap coax pieces before attempting.
  • Different cables and connectors employ many of the same steps for preparation. Dimensions and how the braid is handled are typically the only variables. The RG6QS (QS = Quad Shield) connectors often require the outer braid and foil be removed, and the inner braid and foil remain intact.
  • Only install connectors designed for cable used. Many connectors look similar, but have dimensions that will make securing nearly impossible or not provide quality connections.
  • Leave as much braid intact as possible. Doing so will give your coaxial cable a path to ground in the case of electrical failure. Cable TV wire is usually grounded at the point of entry into the home and will protect other devices from being fried if something happens to short in your equipment.


Warnings

  • Use extreme caution working with the razor knife, for obvious reasons. The work is small scale, and it can be difficult to hold all the parts comfortably.
  • Do not attempt to hold the cable by mechanical means such as a vise. Coax is rugged, but can fail when crushed or bent at sharp angles. The "rule of thumb" for bending cables is the radius of the bend should be no less than 4 times the cable diameter.


Things You'll Need

  • Razor knife (or equal)
  • Wire cutters

How to Sleeve Computer Cables

How to Sleeve Computer Cables

This is a featured article. Click here for more information.

moded PC with sleeved cables
modded PC with sleeved cables
A fundamental component of computer building and modding is cable management. PC enthusiasts and modders complete this tedious process of sleeving cables merely for improved aesthetics. However, cable management and sleeving will often improve a computer's existing air flow, and decrease system temperatures in poorly cooled systems. Regardless of the reason, cable sleeving is a popular trend in the PC modding market that has been thriving for years. This guide will help you sleeve all of your own, internal, computer cables.

Note: this guide is geared towards the sleeving of a spliced cable with two wires. Apply the steps according to your own sleeving project.


Steps

  1. Gather the necessary items as shown in the "Things You'll Need" section.
  2. determine sleeving approach
    Determine your approach. Do you want to sleeve a cable by splicing it, removing pins from connectors, or in place over the existing connectors? Splicing is a good option if you plan to change the length of the cable at the same time, while removing pins from connectors (to avoid forcing the sleeving over connectors) is the cleanest approach. Some connectors may be small enough to sleeve a cable in place.
  3. cut sleeving to length
    Cut sleeving to length. As sleeving expands around cables its length shortens, so be sure to match the length of the sleeving while on the cable itself. Leave approximately 1/4" to 1" (3 to 12mm) of cable exposed at each end. This exposed section will help the heat-shrink tubing to grip both the cable and the sleeving. If applicable, it should also provide enough slack to reinsert pins into their connectors. As your sleeving skills improve, you'll be able to guess the correct length to cut.
  4. sleeving with a singed end
    frayed sleeving that is unraveling
    Singe the sleeving's ends. To avoid fraying and un-weaving, use a heat source, such as a lighter, to singe both ends. Most sleeving cut from a manufacturer or distributor will already be singed at the ends. Whenever you make a cut into the sleeving, singe the ends on both sides of the cut.

    The first photo shows frayed edges of sleeving that has not been singed or treated in any way. The second photo shows sleeving with a singed end to keep it from fraying.
  5. Install sleeving. Put the cut sleeving on the cable, pushing it up the cable in a fashion of movement similar to an inchworm.

    1. Squeeze down to hold one side of the sleeving in place with your first hand.
    2. Use your other hand to push the sleeving together.
    3. Release the grip of your first hand.
    4. Repeat until sleeving has been completely installed.
  6. heat-shrink tubing added
    Cut heat-shrink tubing. You'll need two pieces of approximately 1/4" to 1" (3 to 12mm) long to cover the ends of the sleeving. The tubing should be large enough in diameter to clear the sleeving. Slip both of them over the cable and sleeving, one at a time. Push them all the way to the end of the cable that doesn't have pins, or the end that will be completed last.
  7. sleeving pulled back
    Pull back sleeving. If your sleeving is long and the other side of your cable attached to something, pull back sleeving to give yourself room to work. Use wire ties (twisting variety) or a pair of locking pliers to hold back sleeving.
  8. Attach wires if you're sleeving a spliced cable.

    1. prepped wire ends
      Prepare cable ends before rejoining the wires. Strip the wire insulation off of each end, then twist stranded wires together to avoid separation. Cut two pieces of heat-shrink tubing to cover each soon-to-be reconnected wire. The heat-shrink tubing should be as long as the stripped portion of wire strands, plus 1/4" (3mm), and should be large enough in diameter to clear the wires once twisted together. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over each wire as shown in the photo.
    2. wires part-way twisted together
      Connect the wires by twisting the stripped portion of each wire's ends together. For solid wires (non-stranded), twist them together with a pair of small, needle-nose pliers.
    3. secured wire connections
      Secure and insulate connections. Move the two pieces of heat-shrink tubing to cover the stripped sections of wire that are twisted together. Make sure there is enough tubing to cover all exposed wire as well as overlap at each end. If not, undo the wire connection and re-twist it to make it shorter. Use your heat source to shrink (activate) the tubing until it fits snugly over the connections.
  9. sleeving cut the correct length
    sleeving that is too long
    Release sleeving. Note: if you're sleeving a cable with removed pins, now is the time to reinsert the pins into their connectors. Remove wire twist or locking pliers and release sleeving, allowing it to extend over the entire cable. If the sleeving is now too long, use a pair of diamond edge cutters to snip away the excess sleeving. Remember to leave at least 1/4" (3mm) of cable exposed for heat-shrink tubing.

    The first photo shows sleeving that was cut too long for the cable. The second photo shows the sleeving after it has been cut down in size. If you've correctly estimated the length of your sleeving ahead of time, you won't need to make these adjustments.
  10. completed end
    Expand the sleeving. Hold on end of the sleeving, then pull on the other end to expand the sleeving as much as possible. If you selected the right sized sleeving, it should provide a snug fit around the cable. For larger cables, or if desired, attach a nylon wire tie (zip tie) over each end of the sleeving. This will ensure the sleeving does not move unless forced.
  11. completed sleeving
    Shrink the tubing. Position the two heat-shrink tubing pieces, then activate them with your heat source. Be sure to keep the sleeving taut around the cable during this step. Repeat all of these steps for each cable you want to sleeve.




Things You'll Need

sleeving kits
pin removal tools
tedious method of using staples and a Jeweler's screwdriver
  • PC cables you want to sleeve
  • Sleeving Tools

    • Wire stripping and cutting tool
    • Heat source such as a lighter or heat gun
    • Scissors to cut sleeving and heat-shrink tubing
    • Diamond-edge cutter (optional)
    • Pin removal tool or Jeweler's screwdrivers, depending upon what you're sleeving (optional)
    • Locking pliers to hold back sleeving (optional)
    • Needle-nose pliers have many uses here (optional)

  • Sleeving Consumables

    • Cable sleeving, also sold as part of a sleeving kit
    • Heat-shrink Tubing, also sold as part of a sleeving kit
    • Nylon wire-ties, also sold as part of a sleeving kit (optional)
    • Plastic/paper-coated wire twists to hold sleeving in place (optional)


Tips

sleeved cable with power switch connector
sleeved cable with Molex power connector
sleeved cable with SATA power connector
  • The larger the sleeving (diameter), the easier it is to push together into a wider diameter. This also applies to flexibility. Sleeving manufacturers will typically use the same gauge strands on a specified range of sleeving sizes. The physical properties of sleeving will change dramatically when both the strand gauge and strand type changes.
  • Purchasing sleeving in a kit will save money when the total amount of sleeving you receive is your focus. However, sleeving kits may not provide enough of a specific diameter sleeving for your needs. If you're sleeving the entire inside of your computer, purchase two 'PSU sleeving kits'.
  • stretched tubing verses original size
    stretch tubing with a pair of needle-nose pliers
    If the heat-shrink tubing you have is too small in diameter for its application, it is possible to stretch it. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to slowly and carefully stretch the tubing from the inside out.
    1. Insert the pliers into the tubing as far as possible.
    2. Pull the pliers apart to open up the ends.
    3. Stretch the tubing a little at a time, but avoid puncturing or tearing it.
    4. Close the pliers and rotate the tubing slightly.
    5. Repeat, then repeat this process for the other side of the tubing.
  • Using Jeweler's screwdrivers and staples for connector pin removal will work, but a specialized pin removal tool set is far better. Most sets can be found online for $20 USD or less and will contain a Molex pin removal tool, ATX pin removal tool(s), and floppy/fan pin removal tool(s).
  • Small diameter brass tubing from a hobby supply or hardware store will also work to remove the pins. These generally cost roughly $2.00 US. For example, 3/32" ID tube works for Molex pins.
  • If one end of a cable is snagging on the sleeving, try wrapping it in scotch tape. Any tape will help, but scotch tape is easier to remove when you're finished; it won't leave behind any sticky residue.
  • Cables that are significantly smaller in diameter than the sleeving you're installing may not require an 'inchworm'-like installation. The sleeving should slip easily over the cables.
  • Keep stripped wires strand clean by drying your fingers before you twist ends together. Transferring too much oil from your skin will promote corrosion and induce additional resistance. If you find this task difficult, use a contact cleaner to spray the wire ends.
  • sleeved cable with 24-pin ATX and 6-pin PCI-E connectors
    To complete a 'stealth' look of larger sleeved cables (such as an ATX power cable), use rubber electrical wrapping tape. This is thicker, with more of a matte color, when compared to regular vinyl electrical tape. However, rubber wrapping is much more expensive. Use sparingly to wrap the ends of a cable where sleeving and heat-shrink tubing will not cover every wire.
  • For aesthetic value, use similar color connectors, sleeving, and heat-shrink tubing. Sleeving kits often have similar heat-shrink tubing and sleeving colors, even if they don't match perfectly. However, black heat-shrink tubing will typically work well with any color theme. Match the colors to the color theme of your computer, but do not mix more than three colors. An example of a three color theme (black, green, and white) is shown in the images below.


Warnings

sleeved cable for an LCD readout with a D-sub connector
sleeved computer cables with CCFL inverter connectors
sleeved computer cables plugged into a D-sub connector
  • Apply heat accurately when shrinking the tubing to avoid overheating the sleeving. Doing so may burn a hole in the sleeving before you realize your mistake. This is especially problematic where the heat-shrink tubing meets the sleeving. Exposed sleeving will melt, but sleeving covered in heat-shrink tubing should be more resistant.
  • Be careful when singeing the sleeving ends. Applying heat for longer than a few quick passes will melt the ends together.
  • Wiring, connectors, heat-shrink tubing, and sleeving are all flammable if exposed to a flame or heat for an extended period of time.

How to Make a Network Cable

How to Make a Network Cable

This is a featured article. Click here for more information.

The steps below are general Ethernet Category 5 (commonly known as Cat 5) cable construction guidelines. For our example, we will be making a Category 5e patch cable, but the same general method will work for making any category of network cables.

Steps

  1. Unroll the required length of network cable and add a little extra, just in case. If a boot is to be fitted, do so before stripping away the sleeve and ensure the boot faces the correct way.
  2. Carefully remove the outer jacket of the cable, exposing about 1 1/4" (30 mm) of the twisted pairs. Be careful when stripping the jacket as to not nick or cut the internal wiring. After removing the outer case, you will notice 8 wires twisted in 4 pairs. Each pair will have one wire of a certain color and another wire that is white with a colored stripe matching its partner (this wire is called a tracer). Sometimes a rip cord (white thread) is also present.
  3. Inspect the newly revealed wires for any cuts or scrapes that expose the copper wire inside. If you have breached the protective sheath of any wire, you will need to cut the entire segment of wires off and start over at step one. Exposed copper wire will lead to cross-talk, poor performance or no connectivity at all. It is important that the jacket for all network cables remains intact.
  4. Untwist the pairs so they will lay flat between your fingers. The white piece of thread can be cut off even with the jacket and disposed (see Warnings). For easier handling, cut the wires so that they are 3/4" (19 mm) long from the base of the jacket.
  5. Arrange the wires based on the wiring specifications you are following. There are two methods set by the TIA, 568A and 568B. Which one you use will depend on what is being connected. A straight-through cable is used to connect two different-layer devices (e.g. a hub and a PC). Two like devices normally require a cross-over cable. The difference between the two is that a straight-through cable has both ends wired identically, while a cross-over cable has one end wired 568A and the other end wired 568B.[1] For our demonstration in the following steps, we will use 568B, but the instructions can easily be adapted to 568A.
    • 568B - Put the wires in the following order, from left to right:

      • white orange
      • orange
      • white green
      • blue
      • white blue
      • green
      • white brown
      • brown
    • 568A - from left to right: white/green, green, white/orange, blue, white/blue, orange, white/brown, brown. You can also use the mnemonic 1-2-3-6/3-6-1-2 to remember which wires are switched.

      Image:Rj45568AB_955.gif
  6. Press all the wires flat and parallel between your thumb and forefinger. Verify the colors have remained in the correct order. Cut the top of the wires even with one another so that they are 1/2" (12.5 mm) long from the base of the jacket, as the jacket needs to go into the 8P8C connector by about 1/8", meaning that you only have a 1/2" of room for the individual cables. Leaving more than 1/2" untwisted can jeopardize connectivity and quality. Ensure that the cut leaves the wires even and clean; failure to do so may cause the wire not to make contact inside the jack and could lead to wrongly guided cores inside the plug.
  7. Keep the wires flat and in order as you push them into the RJ-45 plug with the flat surface of the plug on top. The white/orange wire should be on the left if you're looking down at the jack. You can tell if all the wires made it into the jack and maintain their positions by looking head-on at the plug. You should be able to see a wire located in each hole, as seen at the bottom right. You may have to use a little effort to push the pairs firmly into the plug. The cabling jacket should also enter the rear of the jack about 1/4" (6 mm) to help secure the cable once the plug is crimped. You may need to stretch the sleeve to the proper length. Verify that the sequence is still correct before crimping.
  8. Place the wired plug into the crimping tool. Give the handle a firm squeeze. You should hear a ratcheting noise as you continue. Once you have completed the crimp, the handle will reset to the open position. To ensure all pins are set, some prefer to double-crimp by repeating this step.
  9. Repeat all of the above steps with the other end of the cable. The way you wire the other end (568A or 568B) will depend on whether you're making a straight-through, rollover, or cross-over cable (see Tips).
  10. Test the cable to ensure that it will function in the field. Mis-wired and incomplete network cables could lead to headaches down the road. In addition, with power-over-Ethernet (PoE) making its way into the market place, crossed wire pairs could lead to physical damage of computers or phone system equipment, making it even more crucial that the pairs are in the correct order. A simple cable tester can quickly verify that information for you. Should you not have a network cable tester on hand, simply test connectivity pin to pin.


Tips

  • A key point to remember in making Ethernet patch cords is that the "twists" in the individual pairs should remain entwined as long as possible until they reach the RJ-45 plug termination. The twisting of the pairs in the network cable is what helps to ensure good connectivity and keeps cross-talk interference to a minimum. Do not untwist the wires any more than you need to.
  • CAT5 and CAT5e are very similar cables, however CAT5e offers better quality especially on longer runs. If making a longer run, CAT5e is recommended, however CAT5 is still an option for small patch cables.
  • A good idea on long runs, especially those that you need to hang or snake around, is to crimp and test the cable before you run the cable. This is recommended especially to anyone who is first starting out crimping their own cables, as it ensures you are crimping the correct pin order now, rather than trying to trouble shoot later.


Warnings

  • The ripcords, if present, are usually quite strong, so do not attempt to break them. Cut them.
  • Unless you need to do a large amount of cabling work, it may be less frustrating and, due to the cost of tools, less expensive to purchase ready-made cables.
  • Fire Codes require a special type of cover over the wires if the cabling is to be installed in ceilings or other areas that are exposed to the building ventilation system. This is usually referred to as plenum-grade cable or simply "plenum cable", and does not release toxic fumes when burned. Plenum cabling is more costly, perhaps double that of ordinary cable, so only use where necessary. Riser cable is similar to plenum, but is for use in walls or wiring closets to connect floors. Riser may not replace plenum cable so be aware of what area you are laying your cable. If in doubt, use plenum as it has the strictest and safest ratings.
  • A cat5 cable can not exceed 100 meters, or 328 feet. It probably shouldn't go beyond 300 feet.
  • RJ-45 is the common term most individuals use for the connectors present in CAT5 cabling. The correct name of the connector is simply 8P8C, where as RJ-45 is the name of a very similar looking defunct connector used in telecommunication. Most people will understand RJ-45 as 8P8C, but be careful when purchasing out of a catalog or online where you can't visibly determine which you are purchasing.
  • Be aware of any shielding your cable may have. The most common type of cable is UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair), but a number of shielding/foiling options exist for added protection against EMI. Be aware of what you are purchasing and what you need. In most environments, UTP will be fine.


Things You'll Need

  • Crimper - This is the most essential tool and critical to the cable making process. If you don't have a quality crimper, then your cable connections will be bad. Inferior crimpers will make it difficult and/or nearly impossible to achieve a tight connection between the wires. Many better quality crimpers also have a ratcheting controlled closure for precise crimping. Crimpers with a plastic body will be more likely to develop a sloppy hip joint and give consistently poor cramps; a metal crimper is much preferred, and very common.
  • Tester (Optional) - Although not necessary for making cables, having a good cable tester can prevent and solve cable wiring configuration and installation problems. Most testers consist of two boxes (transmitter and receiver) you plug your patch cable into. The transmitter box tests the cable by sending test pulses down each individual wire, lighting up LED lights on the receiver box. Most testers will show you a result of the pass. Why do you want to test cables? Even if they are slightly damaged, network cables will work, but cause packet loss and data corruption to your hardware.
  • RJ45 Connectors - Ensure your RJ45 connectors are designed for the type of cable you are using (solid/stranded), as they have different types of teeth for piercing between multiple strands or around a solid single strand. Note: if you ask in an electrical trades store for RJ45 connectors, you may be asked whether you want "solid", "stranded" or "flat". The "flat" choice relates to the old flat "silver satin" cables used in 10Base-T, and should not be used in new Ethernet deployments.
  • Bulk Cable - Bulk cable can be found at computer stores, electrical stores, and home centers. You can obtain Category 5, Category 5e, and Category 6 cable, depending on your needs. For lengths shorter than 50' use a stranded/braided cable. For lengths greater than 50' use a solid cable.

    • There are two types of wire (solid or stranded) and which one you choose should be based on where and how the patch cable is to be used. See warning above about PLENUM cable. Stranded wire is best for a workstation patch as it can tolerate flexing without cracking the conductors; however, the trade off is that they're more susceptible to moisture penetration.[2] Solid is best used in a wire closet or for a patch that will be moved very infrequently, as the conductor tends to crack if bent and/or flexed. Cracked conductor leads to "reflections" which make for chatter on the LAN connection, hampering speed and reliability.

  • Boots (optional but preferred). It saves the cable in the long run and improves the looks. A boot is a molded piece of plastic that protects the connector from snagging, if it is pulled through the wall or conduit. It also provides strain relief on the cable, making it harder for the connector to be pulled off.
  • Straight edge wire cutter. You may find serrated snips work very nicely. Use something that gives an easy square cut; avoid diagonal pliers for this reason. You will find that many quality crimpers have a straight edge cutter built in.
  • Fish Tape - Fish tape is either a metal or plastic spool of guide wire. Strong enough not to buckle and bend while being pushed around, but flexible enough to be pushed past corners and bends, fish tape is a vital tool for some cable runs. Recommended conditions include: conduit, within walls, along structural beams and girders, in ducting, plenums, and dropped ceilings, or any situation where it's not physically possible to drag the cable along with you.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Change Start Button Text

As you can see from the screen capture above it would seem that the five character limit isn’t etched in stone. The button expanded to accept the text I entered with no problem. I’ve been using the system for a few weeks now with no adverse effects. That’s not to say I won’t discover something down the road a bit, but for now I feel comfortable with the changes. If you’d like to try the procedure I used, the instructions follow.

Step 1 – Modify Explorer.exe File

In order to make the changes, the file explorer.exe located at C:\Windows needs to be edited. Since explorer.exe is a binary file it requires a special editor. For purposes of this article I have used Resource Hacker. Resource HackerTM is a freeware utility to view, modify, rename, add, delete and extract resources in 32bit Windows executables and resource files (*.res). It incorporates an internal resource script compiler and decompiler and works on Win95, Win98, WinME, WinNT, Win2000 and WinXP operating systems. Navigate here to download Resource Hacker.

The first step is to make a backup copy of the file explorer.exe located at C:\Windows\explorer. Place it in a folder somewhere on your hard drive where it will be safe. Start Resource Hacker and open explorer.exe located at C:\Windows\explorer.exe as shown in Fig. 01.


Fig. 01

The category we are going to be using is String Table. Expand it by clicking the plus sign then navigate down to and expand string 37 followed by highlighting 1033. If you are using the Classic Layout rather than the XP Layout, use number 38. The right hand pane will display the stringtable as shown in Fig. 02. We’re going to modify item 578, currently showing the word “start” just as it displays on the current Start button.


Fig. 02

There is no magic here. Just double click on the word “start” so that it’s highlighted, making sure the quotation marks are not part of the highlight. They need to remain in place, surrounding the new text that you’ll type. Go ahead and type your new entry. In my case I used ElderGeek as shown in Fig. 03.


Fig. 03

Compare the screen captures in Fig. 02 and Fig. 03 and you’ll notice that after the new text string has been entered the Compile Script button that was grayed out in Fig. 02 is now active in Fig. 03. I won’t get into what’s involved in compiling a script, but suffice it to say it’s going to make this exercise worthwhile. Click Compile Script and then save the altered file using the Save As command on the File Menu. Do not use the Save command – Make sure to use the Save As command and choose a name for the file. See Fig. 04. Save the newly named file to C:\Windows.


Fig. 04

Step 2 – Modify the Registry

Now that the modified explorer.exe has been created it’s necessary to modify the registry so the file will be recognized when the user logs on to the system. If you don’t know how to access the registry I’m not sure this article is for you, but just in case it’s a temporary memory lapse, go to Start (soon to be something else) Run and type regedit in the Open: field. Navigate to:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\ SOFTWARE\ Microsoft\ Windows NT\ CurrentVersion\ Winlogon


Fig. 05

In the right pane (Fig. 05), double click the Shell entry to open the Edit String dialog box as shown in Fig. 06. In Value data: line, enter the name that was used to save the modified explorer.exe file. Click OK.


Fig. 06

Close Registry Editor and either log off the system and log back in, or reboot the entire system if that’s your preference. If all went as planned you should see your new Start button with the revised text.