Assigning a Static IP Address

To assign a Static IP Address to your network connection follow these steps:

1. Open Network Connections

2. Right click the connection you wish to assign a Static Address to and choose Properties.

3. In the Properties box that comes up select “Internet Protocol TCP/IP” and click the Properties button beneath.

4. In Internet Protocol TCP/IP Properties place a dot in “Use the following IP Address“.

5. Enter the IP address you wish to use and OK the change. Click OK on Local Area Connection Properties.

6. Reboot

Change a MAC Address

MAC addresses were designed to be fixed numbers that cannot be changed. However, there are several valid reasons to want to change your MAC address
Changing a MAC Address To Work With Your ISP

Most Internet subscriptions allow the customer only a single IP address. The Internet Service Provider (ISP) may assign one static (fixed) IP address to each customer. However, this approach is an inefficient use of IP addresses that are currently in short supply. The ISP more commonly issues each customer dynamic IP address that may change each time the customer connects to the Internet.ISPs ensure each customer receives only one dynamic address using several methods. Dial-up and many DSL services typically require the customer to log in with a username and password.
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Cable modem services, on the other hand, do this by registering and tracking the MAC address of the device that connects to the ISP.

The device whose MAC address is monitored by an ISP can be either the cable modem, a broadband router, or the PC that hosts the Internet connection. The customer is free to build a network behind this equipment, but the ISP expects the MAC address to match the registered value at all times.

Whenever a customer replaces that device, however, or changes the network adapter inside it, the MAC address of this new equipment will no longer match the one registered at the ISP. The ISP will often disable the customer’s Internet connection for security (and billing) reasons.
Change a MAC Address through Cloning

Some people contact their ISP to request they update the MAC address associated with their subscription. This process works but takes time, and Internet service will be unavailable while waiting for the provider to take action.A better way to quickly workaround this problem is to change the MAC address on the new device so that it matches the address of the original device. While an actual physical MAC address cannot be changed in hardware, the address can be emulated in software. This process is called cloning.

Many broadband routers today support MAC address cloning as an advanced configuration option. The emulated MAC address appears to the service provider identical to the original hardware address. The specific procedure of cloning varies depending on the type of router; consult product documentation for details.
MAC Addresses and Cable Modems

In addition to MAC addresses tracked by the ISP, some broadband modems also track the MAC address of the host computer’s network adapter within the home network. If you swap the computer connected to the broadband modem, or change its network adapter, your cable Internet connection may not function afterward.In this case, MAC address cloning is not required. Resetting (including recycling power) on both the cable modem and the host computer will automatically change the MAC address stored inside the modem.
Changing MAC Addresses through the Operating System

Starting with Windows 2000, users can sometimes change their MAC address through the Windows My Network Places interface. This procedure does not work for all network cards as it depends on a certain level of software support built into the adapter driver.In Linux and versions of Unix, the “ifconfig” also supports changing MAC addresses if the necessary network card and driver support exists.
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Summary - Change a MAC Address

The MAC address is an important element of computer networking. MAC addresses uniquely identify a computer on the LAN. MAC is an essential component required for network protocols like TCP/IP to function.Computer operating systems and broadband routers support viewing and sometimes changing MAC addresses. Some ISPs track their customers by MAC address. Changing a MAC address can be necessary in some cases to keep an Internet connection working. Some broadband modems also monitor the MAC address of their host computer.
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Although MAC addresses do not reveal any geographic location information like IP addresses do, changing MAC addresses may improve your Internet privacy in some situations.

Find a MAC Address

The method used to find a MAC address depends on the type of network device involved. All popular network operating systems contain utility programs that allow one to find (and sometimes change) MAC address settings.
Find a MAC Address in Windows

In Windows 95, Windows 98 and Windows ME, the winipcfg utility displays the computer’s MAC address. Use the ipconfig utility (with the /all option) in Windows NT and any newer versions of Windows.Both ‘winipcfg’ and ‘ipconfig’ may display multiple MAC addresses for one computer. One MAC address exists for each installed network card. Additionally, Windows maintains one or more MAC addresses that are not associated with hardware cards.
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For example, Windows dial-up networking uses virtual MAC addresses to manage the phone connection as if it were a network card. Some Windows VPN clients likewise have their own MAC address. The MAC addresses of these “virtual” network adapters are the same length and format as true hardware addresses.
Find a MAC Address in Unix or Linux

The specific command used in Unix to find a MAC address varies depending on the version of the operating system. In Linux and in some forms of Unix, the command “ifconfig -a” returns MAC addresses.You can also find MAC addresses in Unix and Linux in the boot message sequence. These operating systems display the computer’s MAC address on-screen as the system reboots. Additionally, boot-up messages are retained in a log file (usually “/var/log/messages” or “/var/adm/messages”).
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Find a MAC Address on the Macintosh

You can find MAC addresses on the Macintosh in the TCP/IP Control Panel. If the system is running Open Transport, the MAC address appears under the “Info” or “User Mode/Advanced” screens. If the system is running MacTCP, the MAC address appears under the “Ethernet” icon.

10+ E-mail Best Practices to Share

1.Prevent virus outbreaks and spam

Viruses are often spread through e-mail. You can greatly reduce the spread of e-mail viruses by using antivirus software, using only e-mail services that offer automatic antivirus protection (such as AOL, Google, Hotmail, and Yahoo), opening e-mail only from trusted sources, opening only attachments you're expecting, and scanning attached files with antivirus software before opening them.
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Spam is loosely defined as unsolicited bulk e-mail and loosely correlates to the junk mail that turns up in your home mailbox. But spam represents more than unwanted clutter. It clogs e-mail accounts—and networks and servers—while trying to sell products, spread jokes, or propagate Internet hoaxes.

Reduce the amount of spam you receive by being cautious where you post your e-mail address. Avoid publishing your e-mail address on Web sites or submitting it to every site or organization that requests it.

Never forward chain messages, which often reveal coworkers’ and colleagues’ e-mail addresses to other parties. Use caution when accepting e-mail offers or agreeing to accept mailings from vendors; subscribe only to Web sites and newsletters you really need and consider creating a generic Hotmail or Yahoo e-mail account for these subscriptions.

Don’t open unsolicited e-mail. If you accidentally open spam, don’t click links offering to unsubscribe or remove you from the mailing list unless the sender is a trusted vendor

2. Avoid phishing attacks

Phishing scams are designed to steal consumers’ personal information. They often use doctored and fraudulent e-mail messages to trick recipients into divulging private information, such as credit card numbers, account usernames, passwords, and even social security numbers.
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Online banking and e-commerce are generally safe, but you should always be careful about divulging personal and corporate information over the Internet. Phishing messages often boast real logos and appear to have come from the actual organization, but those messages are frequently nothing more than copyright infringements and faked addresses. If you suspect a message possesses any credibility, you are much safer calling the company directly—preferably at a telephone number printed on a paper statement or invoice—and talking to an authorized representative.

3.Manage your Inbox

Sort messages by priority, subject, date, sender, and other options to help find important e-mail that requires your attention. Proper e-mail etiquette dictates that you respond to all e-mail in a timely fashion. Generally speaking, you should respond to all professional e-mail within a business day, even if it’s just to say you’ve received the message and will look into the matter. Occasionally, you may receive an e-mail thread that contains responses from several people; always read the entire thread before responding.
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4.Compose professional messages

Writing subject lines can be tricky, but you should always include one. The goal is to summarize the message without being too wordy or too vague. Long subjects tend to be skimmed or ignored, and they don’t always fully display in e-mail viewers. For best readability, use sentence case for subject lines rather than all caps:

Agenda for meeting on 02/03/2008

Not

AGENDA FOR MEETING ON 02/03/2008

5.Properly use CC and BCC

The carbon copy (CC) and blind carbon copy (BCC) features found in most e-mail clients allow you to send copies of an e-mail to others you need to keep informed but who aren’t necessarily the primary recipients.
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When copying others, be certain the e-mail message pertains to them. If you use e-mail address lists, verify that all of the members of the list should receive the e-mail, too, and remove those who don’t need to be included. And use the BCC feature sparingly. If sensitive topics require BCCing others, it may be best to take the matter offline and discuss it in person.

7.Obey etiquette rules when forwarding messages

Before you forward an e-mail, make sure that all recipients need to receive the message. In addition, be careful when forwarding sensitive or confidential information. Never forward proprietary information to external audiences or to unauthorized recipients. Before clicking the Send button, review whether a message’s contents are appropriate for each listed recipient.

8.Don't be a party to a flame war

Flame wars are heated e-mail exchanges that are more emotional than reasoned, and they have no place in professional communications. If you receive a flame or suddenly find yourself in a flame war, take a little time

before responding, if you respond at all. Think about the situation and reply rationally not emotionally.
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You may also decide not to reply but to deal with the issue in person. Often, flame wars are started because of a simple misunderstanding. An ill-phrased comment (or even a well phrased one) can be misconstrued by a recipient, who then fires off a salvo in response. Instead of replying, go talk to the person and discuss the message. If talking with the person doesn’t end the problem, involve a manager for assistance in resolving the issue offline.

9.Protect e-mail addresses

Don't divulge your coworkers’ e-mail addresses to vendors, friends, or others outside the organization. Verify that recipients listed in the To and CC fields should be receiving messages and that you won't be revealing others' e-mail addresses in the process. Don't post your or coworkers’ e-mail addresses on Internet forums or bulletin boards, on Usenet groups, in chat rooms, or in other public areas.

Here are a couple of simple ways to help keep others’ e-mail addresses private. First, use the BCC feature when you need to hide their e-mail addresses from external audiences. Second, delete their addresses from messages you forward. It takes only a few moments and will reduce the chances of coworkers’ e-mail addresses proliferating in the wild.

10.Be smart about handling attachments

E-mail attachments consume inordinate amounts of e-mail server space and network bandwidth and are often the culprits behind virus outbreaks—but they're often the easiest way to transfer files. Just be sure to follow these guidelines when e-mailing attachments:

1. Don’t attach large files to an e-mail.

2. Limit the number of files you attach to a message to five or fewer.

3. Save attachments to your hard drive and then delete the e-mail message containing the attachment.

4. Don’t open unexpected attachments or those sent by unknown parties.

5. Always scan files with an antivirus program before opening an attachment. Never click an attachment without first confirming that it’s virus-free.

6. Don't annoy recipients by forwarding attachments they can’t access. If an attachment requires a new or less-common application, say so in your message.

11.Don't include sensitive or potentially embarrassing information

Don't make the mistake of thinking your e-mails are private. They're not. Think of them as postcards. You should never include any information in an e-mail that you wouldn’t want published on the front page of your local newspaper. In other words, never send confidential, proprietary, sensitive, personal, or classified information through e-mail. You should also refrain from making inflammatory, emotionally charged comments in e-mail.
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12.Know when to use e-mail (and when not to)

Businesses provide e-mail for professional, business-related use, not for jokes, gossip, or chain e-mails. Also remember that you shouldn't send an e-mail to do a conversation's work. Complicated subjects are often difficult to explain face to face, much less in an e-mail. Instead of firing off a complicated explanation via e-mail, set up a short meeting to address the issue in person.

E-mail is also a poor stand-in for conversation when conducting critical, difficult, and/or unpleasant discussions, such as issues related to human resources matters. Touchy communications are best handled in person.

13.Hoaxes, scams, and urban legends - the downside of email

Email hoaxes are the online equivalent of urban legends. Email hoaxes may entail a variety of subjects from virus warnings to false stories of plans to start taxing email. Often they are harmless in nature, but they can cause unnecessary chaos and sometimes fear. Most people have good intentions when they forward these email messages. They are probably unaware that they are circulating an email hoax.

It is important to recognize when you receive a hoax so that you can play a part in stopping it from spreading. With email hoaxes, it is often difficult to distinguish whether or not it is truth. Many sound like they are doing you a favour by warning you of something dangerous (a computer virus, medical risk, etc.). The email will often look legitimate by falsely citing reputable sources.

Here are some questions to consider if you suspect an email may be a hoax:

· Does the email suggest that you email it to everyone you know?

· Does the email start out by saying 'This is not a hoax'?

· Can you see that the email has already been forwarded through a lengthy chain of people?

· Does the email cite a source (i.e. CNN) but no date that the info was released or link to that source's web site?

· Does the email sound too good to be true? (i.e. Microsoft will pay you $5 for everyone you send this to)

· Does the email have an 'urgent warning'?

· Does the email ask you to delete files?

If you answer yes to any of these questions, you may be dealing with an email hoax.

Before you consider forwarding any email that asks you to forward it to anyone else you should be able to do the following:

· Verify the original date the message was created and sent.

· Verify the original sender of the message.

· Verify any quotes made by any organizations mentioned with specific URL's (web addresses) that backup the claims made in the message.

· If the e-mail is for a cause, be able to verify the date of any action mentioned and/or the specific piece of legislation that is mentioned

· Just Google it to find out whether it is a HOAX or NOT

How to Set up a Private Network

A private network is one which either does not connect to the internet, or is connected indirectly using NAT (Network Address Translation) so its addresses do not appear on the public network. However, a private network allows you to connect to other computers that are on the same physical network. This is desirable when you wish to communicate with a group of other computers or share data and internet connectivity is not necessary.

Steps

1. Plan your network. This is probably the hardest part of setting up a network.
   
   Draw any routers you may be using to separate major portions of your network first. Smaller private networks do not require routers, but may still use them for administrative reasons. Routers are only required if a.)Dividing your network into multiple smaller networks, b.) Allowing indirect internet access using NAT. Next, add any switches and hubs. For small networks, only one switch or hub may be necessary.
   Draw boxes to represent the computers and lines connecting the devices together. This drawing will serve as your network diagram.
   
   Although diagrams intended only for your own use may use any symbols you desire, use of industry standard symbols make this task simpler and eliminates confusion for others. Typical industry standard symbols are:
   
   
   • Routers: Circle with four arrows arranged in a cross. Or just a cross if drawing a quick draft.
   • Switches: Square or rectangle, with four staggered arrows, two in each direction. Represents the concept of signals being "switched" - relayed only out the port which leads to the intended user based on address.
   • Hubs: Same as switch, with a single double-headed arrow. Represents the concept of all signals being blindly repeated out all ports without concern for which port leads to the intended recipient.
   • Lines and squares can be used to represent connections leading to computers.
2. Create an address plan
   
   
   • IPv4 (IP ver. 4) addresses are written like this: xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx (four numbers separated by three dots), in all RFC-1166 compliant countries. Each number ranges from 0 to 255. This is known as "Dotted Decimal Notation" or "Dot Notation" for short. The address is divided into two portions: the network portion and the host portion.
     
     For "Classful" networks, the network and host portions are as follows:
     ("n" represents the network portion, "x" represents the host portion)
     
     When the first number is 0 to 127 - nnn.xxx.xxx.xxx (ex. 10.xxx.xxx.xxx)
     These are known as "Class A" networks.
     
     When the first number is 128 to 191 - nnn.nnn.xxx.xxx (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx)
     These are known as "Class B" networks.
     
     When the first number is 192 to 223 - nnn.nnn.nnn.xxx (ex. 192.168.1.xxx)
     These are known as "Class C" networks.
     
     When the first number is 224 to 239 - The address is used for multi-casting.
     
     When the first number is 240 to 255 - The address is "experimental".
     
     Multicast & Experimental addresses are beyond the scope of this article. However, do note that because IPv4 does not treat them the same way as other addresses they should not be used.
     For simplicity "non-classful networks", sub-netting, and CIDR will not be discussed in this article.
     
     The network portion specifies a network; the host portion specifies an individual device on a network.
     
     For any given network:
     
     
     • The range of all possible host portion numbers gives the Address Range.
       (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the range is 172.16.0.0 to 172.16.255.255)
     • The lowest possible address is the Network Address.
       (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the network address is 172.16.0.0)
       This address is used by devices to specify the network itself, and cannot be assigned to any device.
     • The highest possible address is the Broadcast Address.
       (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the broadcast address is 172.16.255.255)
       This address is used when a packet is meant for all devices on a specific network, and cannot be assigned to any device.
     • The remaining numbers in the range are the Host Range.
       (ex. 172.16.xxx.xxx the host range is 172.16.0.1 to 172.16.255.254)
       These are the numbers you can assign to computers, printers, and other devices.
       Host Addresses are individual addresses within this range.
   • Assign network(s). A network, for this purpose, is any group of connections separated by a router.
     
     Your network may not have routers or, if accessing the Internet with NAT, have only one router between your private network and the public internet. If this is your only router, or if you have no routers, your entire private network is considered one network.
     
     Choose a network with a host range large enough to provide an address to each device. Class C networks (ex. 192.168.0.x) allow for 254 host addresses (192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.254), which is fine if you have no more than 254 devices. But if you have 255 or more devices, you will either need to use a Class B network (ex. 172.16.x.x) or divide your private network into smaller networks with routers.
     
     If additional routers are used, they become "internal routers", the private network becomes a "private intranet", and each group of connections is a separate network requiring its own network address and range. This includes connections between routers, and connections directly from a router to a single device.
     
     For simplicity, the remainder of these steps will assume you have only one network, of 254 or less devices, and uses 192.168.2.x as an example. We will also assume you are not using DHCP (Dynamic Host Control Protocol) to assign host addresses automatically.
3. Write "192.168.2.x" in the corner somewhere. If you have more than one network it's best to write each address near the network it belongs to.
4. Assign host addresses within the range of 1 to 254 to each computer. Write the host addresses next to the devices they belong to on the diagram. At first you may wish to write the entire address (ex. 192.168.2.5) next to each device. However, as you become more proficient simply writing the host portion (ex. .5) may help save time.
   
   Switches will not require addresses for the purpose discussed here. Routers will require addresses as described in the "Important Notes" section.
5. Write down the subnet mask near the network address. For 192.168.2.x, which is a Class C, the mask is: 255.255.255.0 The computer needs it to tell which part of the IP address is the network and which is the host.
   
   IPv4 originally used the first number (ex. 192) to determine this based on the address class, as described above. However, the advent of subnetting and nonclassful networking made it necessary to provide a mask because other ways of dividing the address into network and host portions are now possible. For Class A addresses the mask is 255.0.0.0, for Class B it's 255.255.0.0 (More information in the Important Notes section.)
6. Connect your network. Gather all needed materials including cables, computers, ethernet switches, and (if used) routers. Locate the Ethernet ports on the computers and other devices. Look for the 8-pin modular connector. (RJ-45 style) It looks like a standard telephone jack except it's a bit larger because it has more conductors.
   
   Connect the cables between each device, just as in your map. If an unforeseen circumstance causes you to vary from the diagram, make notes to show any changes.
7. Boot all the computers connected to the network. Power on all other connected devices. (Some devices have no "power switch" and will power up simply by plugging them in.)
8. Configure the computers for networking. Go to internet options (this varies depending on the Operating System), and go to the dialog box that lets you change the TCP/IP protocol. Change the radio buttons from "Obtain from DHCP server automatically" to "Use the following IP address:". Type in your IP address for that computer, and the appropriate subnet mask (255.255.255.0).
   
   If you have no routers, leave the "Default Gateway" and "DNS server" fields blank.
   
   If connecting to the internet using NAT, use the Host Address assigned to the router between your private network and the internet as both the DNS server and the Default Gateway. Do not use the Network Address (192.168.2.0)
   
   If using more than one router see the Important Notes section.
   
   If configuring a home network with a relatively new router, This section can be ignored as long as the network is connected correctly, The router will assign network addresses to everything on the network going into your network, until it hits another router.
9. Verify connectivity. The simplest way to do this is with Ping. Bring up MS-DOS or the equivalent on other OS's, (In Windows open the command prompt which is located in the Start Menu - Accessories - Command Prompt) and type in: ping 192.168.2.[insert host number here]. Do this on one host and ping to all other hosts. Remember, your router is considered a host. If you cannot reach one, read over the steps again or contact a professional.

Important Notes

• Adding NAT (Network Address Translation) to the network described above. NAT allows private networks to connect to public networks, by converting IP addresses on the private network to ones allowed on the public network. All devices will appear from the Internet's perspective to be connected to one of its public networks according to the public addressing plan (as defined by IANA - Internet Assignment Numbering Authority). "Dynamic NAT" allows multiple private IPs to "take turns" using a public IP.
  
  A related technology, PNAT (Port Network Address Translation) - also known as PAT (Port Address Translation) or NAT "Overloading", allows multiple private IPs to "share" one public IP at the same time. It manipulates both OSI Layer 3 and OSI Layer 4 information so connections from multiple private IPs appear to come from one computer with one public IP.
  
  Many computer, electronics, and even department store sell small routers designed to allow multiple users to share a single internet connection. Almost all of these use PAT, to eliminate the need for more than one public IP (extra public IPs may be expensive, or not allowed, depending on your provider).
  
  If you use one, you will need to assign one of your private network's Host Addresses to the router.
  
  If using a more complex commercial router, you will need to assign a private Host Addresses to the interface connecting to your private network, your public IP to the interface connecting to the Internet, and configure NAT/PAT manually.
  
  If using only one router, the interface used to connect the router to your private network will become both the "DNS Server Interface" and the "Default Gateway". You will need to add its address to these fields when configuring your other devices.
  
  
• If your network is divided using one or more internal routers, each router will require an address for each network connected to it. (IP Unnumbered is beyond the scope of this article) This address will need to be a host address (just like a computer's) from the host range of the network. Typically, the first available host address (that's the second address in the address range ex. 192.168.1.1) will be used; however any address in the host range is fine as long as you know what it is. Do not use the network address (ex. 192.168.1.0), or the broadcast address (ex 192.168.1.255).
  
  For networks containing one or more user devices (ex. printers, computers, storage devices) the address the router uses for that network will become "Default Gateway" for the other devices. The DNS server, if present, should remain the address used by the router between your networks and the internet. For networks interconnecting routers, no default gateway is needed. For networks containing both user devices and routers, any router on that network will do.
  
  A network is a network, no matter how big or small. When two routers are connected by one cable, even though a Class C (the smallest network) contains 256 addresses, all will belong to the cable. The network address will be .0, the broadcast will be .255, two of the hosts will be used (one for each interface the cable connects), and the other 252 will simply go to waste because they cannot be used anywhere else.
  
  Generally, the small home routers described above are not used for this purpose. When they are, understand the ethernet interfaces on the "private network" side usually belong to a "switch" which is built into the router. The router itself connects to this internally using only one interface. When this is the case, only one host IP will be used by all of them, and they will all be on the same network.
  
  When a router has multiple interfaces with multiple IP's, each interface and IP will create a different network.

• The concept of a subnet mask. The general concept will help in understanding why this number matters.
  
  Dotted decimal notation is a human way of writing IP Addresses to make them easier to work with. What the computer "sees" is 32 ones and zeros in a row like this: 11000000101010000000001000000000. IPv4 originally broke this into 4 groups of 8, hence the "dots" - 11000000.10101000.00000010.00000000, each group is an "octet" of 8 bits. Dotted decimal writes the value of the octet in decimal to make it easier for people to read - 192.168.2.0
  
  A complex set of rules concerning the order of the ones and zeros in the first octet was used to create the "Classful Addressing Scheme"; however, no subnet mask was needed. For all Class A's the first octet was network, for Class B's the first and second were network, for Class C's the first three.
  
  In 1987, intra-nets started becoming larger and the Internet was on its way. Wasting whole Class C ranges of 254 host addresses on small networks became a problem. Class A and B networks often wasted addresses because physical limitations forced networks to be divided by routers before they could get large enough to use so many addresses. (Class B's host range (256 X 256) - 2 = 65534 addresses; Class A's (256^3) - 2 = 16777214.)
  
  Subnetting divides a large Classful network into many smaller "sub-nets" by increasing the number of ones and zeros used to address networks(leaving fewer for the hosts in each network). A small subnet can then be assigned to a small network without using a large number of extra addresses. To say which bits are the network address we use a 1. The "mask" (ex. 255.255.255.192) when converted to binary (ex. 11111111.11111111.11111111.11000000) defines exactly how many more bits are added to the network portion (ex. two host bit). In this example, one Class C with 254 hosts becomes four sub-nets with 62 hosts each. Of these sub-nets only two may be assigned to networks; the first and last cannot be used according to RFC-950.
  
  Further discussion of the rules of subnetting is beyond the scope of this article. What matters here is that even though we are using Classful addresses, Windows (and other software) doesn't know this. And hence, will still need a mask to tell it how many bits we want to use for the network portion. By saying 255.255.255.0, we're saying that 11111111.11111111.11111111.00000000 is the subnet. By that, we say that the first three octets are the network, and the last is the host - we want to make it a Class C.

Tips

• Many devices can determine if you are using a crossover or strait through cable. If you are not so lucky to have auto-sensing on at least one of the devices connected by a cable, you must use the correct type between them. Computer/router-to-switch will require a strait through, computer/router-to-computer/router a crossover. (Note: The ports on the back of some home routers actually belong to a switch built into the router, and must be treated as a switch)
  
  Strait through is a CAT-5, CAT-5e, or CAT-6 Ethernet Cable with the wires connected as follows:
  
  On both ends: Orange Stripe; Orange; Green Stripe; Blue; Blue Stripe; Green; Brown Stripe; Brown
  
  Crossover is a CAT-5, CAT-5e, or CAT-6 Ethernet Cable with the wires connected:
  
  On one end: Orange Stripe; Orange; Green Stripe; Blue; Blue Stripe; Green; Brown Stripe; Brown
  On the other end: Green Stripe; Green; Orange Stripe; Blue; Blue Stripe; Orange; Brown Stripe; Brown
  
  The above conforms to TIA/EIA-568 standard, however, all that is important for a cross-over to work is for pins 1 & 2 (transmit) to switch places with pins 3 & 6 (receive) on the opposite end. For a strait through pins should be the same on both ends. Color sets (ex. Orange Strip & Orange) mark twisted pairs. Keeping pin sets on the same twisted pair (i.e. pins 1 & 2 on one color set, and pins 3 & 6 on another) allows best signal quality.
  
  
  • Note: TIA/EIA standard has not been established for CAT-7 or greater cabling.
    
    
  • For more information see: How to Make a Network Cable
• Hubs are cheaper when connecting only a few devices, but they don't know which interface leads where. They simply repeat everything out all ports, hope it gets to the right device, and let the receiver decide if it needs the information or not. This wastes allot of bandwidth, only allows one computer to talk at one time, and slow the network when more computers are connected.
• Switches cost more, but are smarter. They use addresses to decide where to send data, allow more than one device to talk at once, and don't waste the bandwidth of the other devices' connections.
  
  
• Never connect hubs in any way which forms loops or rings, it will cause packets to be repeated around the ring forever. Additional packets will be added, until the hub is saturated and cannot pass traffic.
  
  Best practice is not connect switches this way either. If connecting switches this way, ensure the switch supports "Spanning Tree Protocol" and that the feature is active. Otherwise the same thing will happen as with hubs.

Warnings

• IANA (The Internet Assigned Numbers Authority) has reserved the following three blocks of the IP address space for private networks: 10.0.0.0 to 10.255.255.255, 172.16.0.0 to 172.31.255.255, and 192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255
  
  Although devices which do not affect public systems, "in theory", do not have to conform to this policy, in practice DNS service, and other software may become confused by use of addresses outside these ranges if not specially configured.
  
  Problems may also arise should a software, hardware, or human error issue cause private IP's outside this range to be used on the public internet. This could be caused by anything from failure of a router to initialize properly to accidentally connecting one of your devices directly to the internet at a later time.
  
  Networking experts never deviate from this policy if private IP data may affect devices outside their own networks, and rarely do so on isolated intra-nets without specific reason. Service providers have the responsibility to protect the Internet from IP conflicts by denying service, should a private IP address outside these ranges affect a public system.
  
  As a matter of security as well, do not deviate from the allotted private address ranges. The addition of Network Address Translation to a private network handing out private addresses is a low level method of security and has been referred to as a "Poor Man's Firewall."

How to Strip Coax Cable

Stripping coax (short for coaxial) cable is not very difficult, and can be mastered with a little practice. While tools designed specifically for this purpose are available for relatively little cost, this wiki will explain how to strip RG6 coax (a very popular cable and satellite TV cable) with a common razor knife and cutters to prepare for a typical "F" (cable or satellite TV) connector.

Coax stripper by AMP.

Steps

1. Hold the cable in one hand (as if it were a stick to be whittled), with the end to be stripped pointed away from your body.
2. Hold the razor knife in your dominant hand and extend the blade if not done so already.
3. Firmly press the edge of the blade (not the point) into the cable at a right angle (perpendicular to the cable) about an inch from the end. The object of this cut is to cut through the outer jacket, layers of foil and / or braids and finally the dielectric foam (usually white in color) that surrounds the center conductor. There will be some opposition to the blade as it sinks deeper into the cable. When the blade approaches the half way point through the cable, ease up on the pressure of the blade. This will occur when the blade has reached the center conductor of the cable, which is at the half way point through the cable. It is very important to not damage this center conductor by nicking it with the blade.
4. Run the blade half way around the cable by rotating the tool around the cable. Do not allow the blade to nick the center conductor as you continue to cut around the center conductor.
5. Reposition the cable as needed in the other hand, so that the blade can easily continue to be rotated around the cable to continue the cut, while still being held in a comfortable position.
6. Return the blade to the storage position in the tool and put the tool down. Grasp the the cable between the end and the fresh cut. Firmly pull the end off of the cable while twisting the end back and forth.
7. Discard the cable end and pick up any stray wires from the braid.
8. Cut off any braid wires that extend beyond the jacket so that they are flush with the jacket with the knife or wire cutters.
9. Carefully inspect the center conductor for nicks. If it is nicked, it will be required to repeat the above steps until you are able to perform the steps without damaging the center conductor. It may take 6, 10 or more attempts before it can be done successfully if never attempted before.
10. Remove any film or dielectric foam remaining from the length of the center conductor (if present) by gently scraping the center conductor with fingernail. Be sure the center conductor is clean all the way around over it's entire length.
11. Hold the cable again as earlier to prepare for removal of the outer jacket. There are different types of "F" connectors and ways to attach them to the cable. Most common "F" connectors can be attached to cables prepared with the dimensions used here and should be used unless the connectors you are using specifies a different dimension.
12. Hold the razor as before, aligning the the blade on the jacket about 5/16 inch back from the cut made in the previous step. The purpose of this cut is to penetrate the jacket only, and leave the braid intact. The cut will be perpendicular to the cable like the first cut. Many "F" connectors specify that the braid not be removed, while others prefer it removed. Plan to leave it in place for now, as it can be removed later, if needed. The braids are woven around the length of the dielectric foam, and lie just beneath the outer jacket. The individual wires that make up the braid are thinner than a hair, and are easily cut. Gently press the blade into the jacket and run it around the cable, in the same manner as was done in the first cut to the center conductor. Once the blade has cut around the circumference of the jacket, press the tip of the blade against the jacket at this cut and gently cut towards the end of the cable. Again, try not to cut the braid.
13. Return the blade to the storage position in the tool and put the tool down. Peel the 5/16 inch jacket off of the cable, leaving only the braid covering the dielectric.
14. Fold the braid back, over the outer jacket. This should expose the dielectric, which surrounds the center conductor. There is no concern if some of the braid wires were cut. Check the requirements (if any) of the "F" connector you will place on the end of the cable.
15. Inspect the cable end. It is very important that there are no wires, filings or other conductive bits between the center conductor and the braid. The white dielectric should show anything that bridges these two parts easily. Remove anything found.
16. Place the "F" connector on the end of the cable. Make one final inspection by looking into the connector. Make sure that no conductive debris is between the center conductor and the "F" connector before securing to the cable.
17. The "F" connector is fully seated on the cable if the dielectric is flush with the "bottom" of the connector, when viewed from the end - looking in. It should not extend beyond or be recessed more than 1/16 inch from the bottom of the connector. Under no circumstances should the center conductor be in contact with the "F" connector.
18. Secure the the "F" connector to the cable only with the tool designed for the connector.
    

    Compression type tool.
    

    Crimping type tool.

Inexpensive crimping type tool.

1. Cut the center conductor so that it extends beyond the "F" connector 3/16 to 1/4 inch.

Tips

• Understand the parts of the cable. From the outside, working in to the center: the outer jacket (usually black or white), braid / foil or both (some have yet a second set of braid and foil, too), dielectric (usually white) and finally center conductor of copper or copper-clad steel. Some cables also have a "messenger wire" as well. This is usually a copper-clad steel solid wire that is attached continuously to the outer jacket. This messenger cable is used almost exclusively to support the cable between a pole and the point of attachment of the home. The messenger cable is connected to the ground block by many professional installers.
• Cut enough off the end to be worked so that there are no kinks, bends, evidence of corrosion, etc in the cable. Work with straight, clean cable whenever possible.
• Practice with scrap coax pieces before attempting.
• Different cables and connectors employ many of the same steps for preparation. Dimensions and how the braid is handled are typically the only variables. The RG6QS (QS = Quad Shield) connectors often require the outer braid and foil be removed, and the inner braid and foil remain intact.
• Only install connectors designed for cable used. Many connectors look similar, but have dimensions that will make securing nearly impossible or not provide quality connections.
• Leave as much braid intact as possible. Doing so will give your coaxial cable a path to ground in the case of electrical failure. Cable TV wire is usually grounded at the point of entry into the home and will protect other devices from being fried if something happens to short in your equipment.

Warnings

• Use extreme caution working with the razor knife, for obvious reasons. The work is small scale, and it can be difficult to hold all the parts comfortably.
• Do not attempt to hold the cable by mechanical means such as a vise. Coax is rugged, but can fail when crushed or bent at sharp angles. The "rule of thumb" for bending cables is the radius of the bend should be no less than 4 times the cable diameter.

Things You'll Need

• Razor knife (or equal)
• Wire cutters

How to Sleeve Computer Cables

A fundamental component of computer building and modding is cable management. PC enthusiasts and modders complete this tedious process of sleeving cables merely for improved aesthetics. However, cable management and sleeving will often improve a computer's existing air flow, and decrease system temperatures in poorly cooled systems. Regardless of the reason, cable sleeving is a popular trend in the PC modding market that has been thriving for years. This guide will help you sleeve all of your own, internal, computer cables.

Note: this guide is geared towards the sleeving of a spliced cable with two wires. Apply the steps according to your own sleeving project.

Steps

1. Gather the necessary items as shown in the "Things You'll Need" section.
2. 
   Determine your approach. Do you want to sleeve a cable by splicing it, removing pins from connectors, or in place over the existing connectors? Splicing is a good option if you plan to change the length of the cable at the same time, while removing pins from connectors (to avoid forcing the sleeving over connectors) is the cleanest approach. Some connectors may be small enough to sleeve a cable in place.
3. 
   Cut sleeving to length. As sleeving expands around cables its length shortens, so be sure to match the length of the sleeving while on the cable itself. Leave approximately 1/4" to 1" (3 to 12mm) of cable exposed at each end. This exposed section will help the heat-shrink tubing to grip both the cable and the sleeving. If applicable, it should also provide enough slack to reinsert pins into their connectors. As your sleeving skills improve, you'll be able to guess the correct length to cut.
4. 
   
   Singe the sleeving's ends. To avoid fraying and un-weaving, use a heat source, such as a lighter, to singe both ends. Most sleeving cut from a manufacturer or distributor will already be singed at the ends. Whenever you make a cut into the sleeving, singe the ends on both sides of the cut.
   
   The first photo shows frayed edges of sleeving that has not been singed or treated in any way. The second photo shows sleeving with a singed end to keep it from fraying.
5. Install sleeving. Put the cut sleeving on the cable, pushing it up the cable in a fashion of movement similar to an inchworm.
   
   
   1. Squeeze down to hold one side of the sleeving in place with your first hand.
   2. Use your other hand to push the sleeving together.
   3. Release the grip of your first hand.
   4. Repeat until sleeving has been completely installed.
6. 
   Cut heat-shrink tubing. You'll need two pieces of approximately 1/4" to 1" (3 to 12mm) long to cover the ends of the sleeving. The tubing should be large enough in diameter to clear the sleeving. Slip both of them over the cable and sleeving, one at a time. Push them all the way to the end of the cable that doesn't have pins, or the end that will be completed last.
7. 
   Pull back sleeving. If your sleeving is long and the other side of your cable attached to something, pull back sleeving to give yourself room to work. Use wire ties (twisting variety) or a pair of locking pliers to hold back sleeving.
8. Attach wires if you're sleeving a spliced cable.
   
   
   1. 
      Prepare cable ends before rejoining the wires. Strip the wire insulation off of each end, then twist stranded wires together to avoid separation. Cut two pieces of heat-shrink tubing to cover each soon-to-be reconnected wire. The heat-shrink tubing should be as long as the stripped portion of wire strands, plus 1/4" (3mm), and should be large enough in diameter to clear the wires once twisted together. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over each wire as shown in the photo.
   2. 
      Connect the wires by twisting the stripped portion of each wire's ends together. For solid wires (non-stranded), twist them together with a pair of small, needle-nose pliers.
   3. 
      Secure and insulate connections. Move the two pieces of heat-shrink tubing to cover the stripped sections of wire that are twisted together. Make sure there is enough tubing to cover all exposed wire as well as overlap at each end. If not, undo the wire connection and re-twist it to make it shorter. Use your heat source to shrink (activate) the tubing until it fits snugly over the connections.
9. 
   
   Release sleeving. Note: if you're sleeving a cable with removed pins, now is the time to reinsert the pins into their connectors. Remove wire twist or locking pliers and release sleeving, allowing it to extend over the entire cable. If the sleeving is now too long, use a pair of diamond edge cutters to snip away the excess sleeving. Remember to leave at least 1/4" (3mm) of cable exposed for heat-shrink tubing.
   
   The first photo shows sleeving that was cut too long for the cable. The second photo shows the sleeving after it has been cut down in size. If you've correctly estimated the length of your sleeving ahead of time, you won't need to make these adjustments.
10. 
    Expand the sleeving. Hold on end of the sleeving, then pull on the other end to expand the sleeving as much as possible. If you selected the right sized sleeving, it should provide a snug fit around the cable. For larger cables, or if desired, attach a nylon wire tie (zip tie) over each end of the sleeving. This will ensure the sleeving does not move unless forced.
11. 
    Shrink the tubing. Position the two heat-shrink tubing pieces, then activate them with your heat source. Be sure to keep the sleeving taut around the cable during this step. Repeat all of these steps for each cable you want to sleeve.
    
    
    
    

Things You'll Need

• PC cables you want to sleeve
• Sleeving Tools
  
  
  • Wire stripping and cutting tool
  • Heat source such as a lighter or heat gun
  • Scissors to cut sleeving and heat-shrink tubing
  • Diamond-edge cutter (optional)
  • Pin removal tool or Jeweler's screwdrivers, depending upon what you're sleeving (optional)
  • Locking pliers to hold back sleeving (optional)
  • Needle-nose pliers have many uses here (optional)
    
    
• Sleeving Consumables
  
  
  • Cable sleeving, also sold as part of a sleeving kit
  • Heat-shrink Tubing, also sold as part of a sleeving kit
  • Nylon wire-ties, also sold as part of a sleeving kit (optional)
  • Plastic/paper-coated wire twists to hold sleeving in place (optional)

Tips

• The larger the sleeving (diameter), the easier it is to push together into a wider diameter. This also applies to flexibility. Sleeving manufacturers will typically use the same gauge strands on a specified range of sleeving sizes. The physical properties of sleeving will change dramatically when both the strand gauge and strand type changes.
• Purchasing sleeving in a kit will save money when the total amount of sleeving you receive is your focus. However, sleeving kits may not provide enough of a specific diameter sleeving for your needs. If you're sleeving the entire inside of your computer, purchase two 'PSU sleeving kits'.
• 
  
  If the heat-shrink tubing you have is too small in diameter for its application, it is possible to stretch it. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to slowly and carefully stretch the tubing from the inside out.
  1. Insert the pliers into the tubing as far as possible.
  2. Pull the pliers apart to open up the ends.
  3. Stretch the tubing a little at a time, but avoid puncturing or tearing it.
  4. Close the pliers and rotate the tubing slightly.
  5. Repeat, then repeat this process for the other side of the tubing.
• Using Jeweler's screwdrivers and staples for connector pin removal will work, but a specialized pin removal tool set is far better. Most sets can be found online for $20 USD or less and will contain a Molex pin removal tool, ATX pin removal tool(s), and floppy/fan pin removal tool(s).
• Small diameter brass tubing from a hobby supply or hardware store will also work to remove the pins. These generally cost roughly $2.00 US. For example, 3/32" ID tube works for Molex pins.
• If one end of a cable is snagging on the sleeving, try wrapping it in scotch tape. Any tape will help, but scotch tape is easier to remove when you're finished; it won't leave behind any sticky residue.
• Cables that are significantly smaller in diameter than the sleeving you're installing may not require an 'inchworm'-like installation. The sleeving should slip easily over the cables.
• Keep stripped wires strand clean by drying your fingers before you twist ends together. Transferring too much oil from your skin will promote corrosion and induce additional resistance. If you find this task difficult, use a contact cleaner to spray the wire ends.
• 
  To complete a 'stealth' look of larger sleeved cables (such as an ATX power cable), use rubber electrical wrapping tape. This is thicker, with more of a matte color, when compared to regular vinyl electrical tape. However, rubber wrapping is much more expensive. Use sparingly to wrap the ends of a cable where sleeving and heat-shrink tubing will not cover every wire.
• For aesthetic value, use similar color connectors, sleeving, and heat-shrink tubing. Sleeving kits often have similar heat-shrink tubing and sleeving colors, even if they don't match perfectly. However, black heat-shrink tubing will typically work well with any color theme. Match the colors to the color theme of your computer, but do not mix more than three colors. An example of a three color theme (black, green, and white) is shown in the images below.

Warnings

• Apply heat accurately when shrinking the tubing to avoid overheating the sleeving. Doing so may burn a hole in the sleeving before you realize your mistake. This is especially problematic where the heat-shrink tubing meets the sleeving. Exposed sleeving will melt, but sleeving covered in heat-shrink tubing should be more resistant.
• Be careful when singeing the sleeving ends. Applying heat for longer than a few quick passes will melt the ends together.
• Wiring, connectors, heat-shrink tubing, and sleeving are all flammable if exposed to a flame or heat for an extended period of time.

How to Make a Network Cable

The steps below are general Ethernet Category 5 (commonly known as Cat 5) cable construction guidelines. For our example, we will be making a Category 5e patch cable, but the same general method will work for making any category of network cables.

Steps

1. Unroll the required length of network cable and add a little extra, just in case. If a boot is to be fitted, do so before stripping away the sleeve and ensure the boot faces the correct way.
2. 
   Carefully remove the outer jacket of the cable, exposing about 1 1/4" (30 mm) of the twisted pairs. Be careful when stripping the jacket as to not nick or cut the internal wiring. After removing the outer case, you will notice 8 wires twisted in 4 pairs. Each pair will have one wire of a certain color and another wire that is white with a colored stripe matching its partner (this wire is called a tracer). Sometimes a rip cord (white thread) is also present.
3. 
   Inspect the newly revealed wires for any cuts or scrapes that expose the copper wire inside. If you have breached the protective sheath of any wire, you will need to cut the entire segment of wires off and start over at step one. Exposed copper wire will lead to cross-talk, poor performance or no connectivity at all. It is important that the jacket for all network cables remains intact.
4. 
   Untwist the pairs so they will lay flat between your fingers. The white piece of thread can be cut off even with the jacket and disposed (see Warnings). For easier handling, cut the wires so that they are 3/4" (19 mm) long from the base of the jacket.
5. 
   Arrange the wires based on the wiring specifications you are following. There are two methods set by the TIA, 568A and 568B. Which one you use will depend on what is being connected. A straight-through cable is used to connect two different-layer devices (e.g. a hub and a PC). Two like devices normally require a cross-over cable. The difference between the two is that a straight-through cable has both ends wired identically, while a cross-over cable has one end wired 568A and the other end wired 568B.^[1] For our demonstration in the following steps, we will use 568B, but the instructions can easily be adapted to 568A.
   • 568B - Put the wires in the following order, from left to right:
     
     
     • white orange
     • orange
     • white green
     • blue
     • white blue
     • green
     • white brown
     • brown
   • 568A - from left to right: white/green, green, white/orange, blue, white/blue, orange, white/brown, brown. You can also use the mnemonic 1-2-3-6/3-6-1-2 to remember which wires are switched.
     
     
6. Press all the wires flat and parallel between your thumb and forefinger. Verify the colors have remained in the correct order. Cut the top of the wires even with one another so that they are 1/2" (12.5 mm) long from the base of the jacket, as the jacket needs to go into the 8P8C connector by about 1/8", meaning that you only have a 1/2" of room for the individual cables. Leaving more than 1/2" untwisted can jeopardize connectivity and quality. Ensure that the cut leaves the wires even and clean; failure to do so may cause the wire not to make contact inside the jack and could lead to wrongly guided cores inside the plug.
7. 
   Keep the wires flat and in order as you push them into the RJ-45 plug with the flat surface of the plug on top. The white/orange wire should be on the left if you're looking down at the jack. You can tell if all the wires made it into the jack and maintain their positions by looking head-on at the plug. You should be able to see a wire located in each hole, as seen at the bottom right. You may have to use a little effort to push the pairs firmly into the plug. The cabling jacket should also enter the rear of the jack about 1/4" (6 mm) to help secure the cable once the plug is crimped. You may need to stretch the sleeve to the proper length. Verify that the sequence is still correct before crimping.
8. 
   Place the wired plug into the crimping tool. Give the handle a firm squeeze. You should hear a ratcheting noise as you continue. Once you have completed the crimp, the handle will reset to the open position. To ensure all pins are set, some prefer to double-crimp by repeating this step.
9. Repeat all of the above steps with the other end of the cable. The way you wire the other end (568A or 568B) will depend on whether you're making a straight-through, rollover, or cross-over cable (see Tips).
10. 
    Test the cable to ensure that it will function in the field. Mis-wired and incomplete network cables could lead to headaches down the road. In addition, with power-over-Ethernet (PoE) making its way into the market place, crossed wire pairs could lead to physical damage of computers or phone system equipment, making it even more crucial that the pairs are in the correct order. A simple cable tester can quickly verify that information for you. Should you not have a network cable tester on hand, simply test connectivity pin to pin.

Tips

• A key point to remember in making Ethernet patch cords is that the "twists" in the individual pairs should remain entwined as long as possible until they reach the RJ-45 plug termination. The twisting of the pairs in the network cable is what helps to ensure good connectivity and keeps cross-talk interference to a minimum. Do not untwist the wires any more than you need to.
• CAT5 and CAT5e are very similar cables, however CAT5e offers better quality especially on longer runs. If making a longer run, CAT5e is recommended, however CAT5 is still an option for small patch cables.
• A good idea on long runs, especially those that you need to hang or snake around, is to crimp and test the cable before you run the cable. This is recommended especially to anyone who is first starting out crimping their own cables, as it ensures you are crimping the correct pin order now, rather than trying to trouble shoot later.

Warnings

• The ripcords, if present, are usually quite strong, so do not attempt to break them. Cut them.
• Unless you need to do a large amount of cabling work, it may be less frustrating and, due to the cost of tools, less expensive to purchase ready-made cables.
• Fire Codes require a special type of cover over the wires if the cabling is to be installed in ceilings or other areas that are exposed to the building ventilation system. This is usually referred to as plenum-grade cable or simply "plenum cable", and does not release toxic fumes when burned. Plenum cabling is more costly, perhaps double that of ordinary cable, so only use where necessary. Riser cable is similar to plenum, but is for use in walls or wiring closets to connect floors. Riser may not replace plenum cable so be aware of what area you are laying your cable. If in doubt, use plenum as it has the strictest and safest ratings.
• A cat5 cable can not exceed 100 meters, or 328 feet. It probably shouldn't go beyond 300 feet.
• RJ-45 is the common term most individuals use for the connectors present in CAT5 cabling. The correct name of the connector is simply 8P8C, where as RJ-45 is the name of a very similar looking defunct connector used in telecommunication. Most people will understand RJ-45 as 8P8C, but be careful when purchasing out of a catalog or online where you can't visibly determine which you are purchasing.
• Be aware of any shielding your cable may have. The most common type of cable is UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair), but a number of shielding/foiling options exist for added protection against EMI. Be aware of what you are purchasing and what you need. In most environments, UTP will be fine.

Things You'll Need

• Crimper - This is the most essential tool and critical to the cable making process. If you don't have a quality crimper, then your cable connections will be bad. Inferior crimpers will make it difficult and/or nearly impossible to achieve a tight connection between the wires. Many better quality crimpers also have a ratcheting controlled closure for precise crimping. Crimpers with a plastic body will be more likely to develop a sloppy hip joint and give consistently poor cramps; a metal crimper is much preferred, and very common.
• Tester (Optional) - Although not necessary for making cables, having a good cable tester can prevent and solve cable wiring configuration and installation problems. Most testers consist of two boxes (transmitter and receiver) you plug your patch cable into. The transmitter box tests the cable by sending test pulses down each individual wire, lighting up LED lights on the receiver box. Most testers will show you a result of the pass. Why do you want to test cables? Even if they are slightly damaged, network cables will work, but cause packet loss and data corruption to your hardware.
• RJ45 Connectors - Ensure your RJ45 connectors are designed for the type of cable you are using (solid/stranded), as they have different types of teeth for piercing between multiple strands or around a solid single strand. Note: if you ask in an electrical trades store for RJ45 connectors, you may be asked whether you want "solid", "stranded" or "flat". The "flat" choice relates to the old flat "silver satin" cables used in 10Base-T, and should not be used in new Ethernet deployments.
• Bulk Cable - Bulk cable can be found at computer stores, electrical stores, and home centers. You can obtain Category 5, Category 5e, and Category 6 cable, depending on your needs. For lengths shorter than 50' use a stranded/braided cable. For lengths greater than 50' use a solid cable.
  
  
  • There are two types of wire (solid or stranded) and which one you choose should be based on where and how the patch cable is to be used. See warning above about PLENUM cable. Stranded wire is best for a workstation patch as it can tolerate flexing without cracking the conductors; however, the trade off is that they're more susceptible to moisture penetration.^[2] Solid is best used in a wire closet or for a patch that will be moved very infrequently, as the conductor tends to crack if bent and/or flexed. Cracked conductor leads to "reflections" which make for chatter on the LAN connection, hampering speed and reliability.
    
    
• Boots (optional but preferred). It saves the cable in the long run and improves the looks. A boot is a molded piece of plastic that protects the connector from snagging, if it is pulled through the wall or conduit. It also provides strain relief on the cable, making it harder for the connector to be pulled off.
• Straight edge wire cutter. You may find serrated snips work very nicely. Use something that gives an easy square cut; avoid diagonal pliers for this reason. You will find that many quality crimpers have a straight edge cutter built in.
• Fish Tape - Fish tape is either a metal or plastic spool of guide wire. Strong enough not to buckle and bend while being pushed around, but flexible enough to be pushed past corners and bends, fish tape is a vital tool for some cable runs. Recommended conditions include: conduit, within walls, along structural beams and girders, in ducting, plenums, and dropped ceilings, or any situation where it's not physically possible to drag the cable along with you.

GENERAL PACKET RADIO SERVICE(GPRS)

GENERAL PACKET RADIO SERVICE(GPRS)

Introduction

The General Packet Radio Service (GPRS) is a new non-voice value added service that allows Mobile Phones to be used for sending and receiving data over an Internet Protocol (IP)-based network. GPRS as such is a data bearer that enables wireless access to data networks like the Internet, enabling users to access E-mail and other Internet applications using Mobile Phones

With GPRS you can enjoy a continuous wireless connection to data networks (Internet) and access your favorite web sites, entertainment services and other web applications.

How does it work?

GPRS is packet based, wherein GPRS data is handled as a series of "packets" that can be routed over several paths through the network, rather than as a continuous bit-stream over a dedicated dial-up connection. With GPRS, the information is split into separate but related "packets" before being transmitted and reassembled at the receiving end. The Internet itself is an example of a packet data network, the most famous of many such network types.

In second-generation mobile networks, calls are handled using traditional circuit-switching technology. A dedicated "circuit", or "timeslot", is allocated between two points for the duration of a call. No other phone can use this circuit during the call, regardless of whether any data is being transmitted or not.

The GPRS standard is delivered in a very elegant manner - with network operators needing only to add a couple of new infrastructure nodes and making a software upgrade to some existing GSM network elements.

Features

a) Internet on the Mobile : For the first time, GPRS fully enables Mobile Internet functionality by allowing interworking between the existing Internet and a new GPRS network. Any service that is used over the fixed Internet today- File Transfer Protocol (FTP), web browsing, chat, email, telnet- will be as available over the mobile network because of GPRS

Because it uses the same protocols, the GPRS network can be viewed as a sub-network of the Internet with GPRS capable mobile phones being viewed as mobile hosts. This means that each GPRS terminal can potentially have its own IP address and will be addressable as such.

b) Rich Media Applications : GPRS facilitates several new applications that have not previously been available over GSM networks due to the limitations in speed of Circuit Switched Data (9.6 kbps) and message length of the Short Message Service (160 characters). GPRS will fully enable the Internet applications you are used to on your desktop, from web browsing to chat over the mobile network. Other new applications for GPRS, profiled later, include file transfer and home automation- the ability to remotely access and control in-house appliances and machines.

c) Speed : GPRS allows large amounts of data to be sent over mobile networks at speeds three to four times greater than conventional GSM systems. Theoretical maximum speeds of up to 171.2 kilobits per second (kbps) are achievable with GPRS using all eight timeslots at the same time. This is about three to four times as fast as the data transmission speeds possible over today's fixed telecommunications networks and ten times as fast as current Circuit Switched Data services on GSM networks. By allowing information to be transmitted more quickly, immediately and efficiently across the mobile network, GPRS may well be a relatively less costly mobile data service compared to SMS and Circuit Switched Data

d) Always On : GPRS facilitates instant connections whereby information can be sent or received immediately as the need arises, subject to radio coverage. No dial-up modem connection is necessary. This is why GPRS users are sometimes referred to be as being "always connected". Immediacy is one of the advantages of GPRS (and SMS) when compared to Circuit Switched Data. High immediacy is a very important feature for time critical applications such as remote credit card authorization where it would be unacceptable to keep the customer waiting for even thirty extra seconds.